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Ethiopia Coffee

Courtesy of Kenneth Davids, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide

For many, the word Ethiopia provokes visions of deserts, droughts and famines. Yet the lush, green hills of southern and southwestern Ethiopiaare more likely to strike visitors who actually go there as paradisal. And, although Ethiopia remains among the world’s poorest countries per capita, for the coffee aficionado it is perhaps the richest place on earth, the source of some of the world’s most varied and distinctive coffees. Ethiopia typically generates about 4% of the world’s coffee, but all is Arabica and much of it is impressive to extraordinary.

Click here to view Ethiopia coffee ratings and reviews

Southern and Western Ethiopia

The producing regions of southern and southwestern Ethiopia in particular stand apart from the world’s other fine coffee origins. Witness:

  • The forests of southwestern Ethiopia are the original botanical home of Coffea arabica, and they continue to harbor most of the unexplored genetic diversity still existing in the species.
  • Much Ethiopia coffee is produced from indigenous Ethiopian varieties of Arabica; these native landrace varieties display symphonic complexities in aroma and flavor that, at their most distinctive, can make even other distinctive varieties of the world — like SL28 and Bourbon — seem a bit limited in sensory range. The only currently cultivated competitor to the finest native Ethiopian varieties in respect to cup and complexity is Geisha or Gesha, which is an Ethiopia variety (a particularly brilliant one) brought to the New World.
  • Export-quality Ethiopia coffees from the south and west are almost always free of significant processing or drying taints. Fruit removal for the wet-processed coffees of these regions is performed using classic ferment-and-wash techniques carried out at well-managed, centralized wet mills or washing stations. Dry or natural-process coffees intended for the specialty market are most likely prepared with analogous care.
  • Almost all Ethiopia coffee is grown by small-holding farmers, most of whom very likely have never used chemical inputs. Not only is this reassuring to consumers, but it also makes a transition to formal organic certification relatively easy, accounting for the widespread availability of superb organic-certified Ethiopias.
  • Ethiopians deeply care about coffee and understand it. Its lore is woven into their culture. They do not produce great coffee and then go home to drink tea, as Kenyans do, or instant coffee, as sadly occurs in many of the coffee world’s other coffee-growing regions. The Ethiopians themselves consume close to half of their country’s production, most of it roasted fresh.
  • Unfortunately for the many cash-poor villages of small-holding Ethiopia farmers, but fortunately for coffee lovers elsewhere in the world, most fine Ethiopia coffees are amazing bargains. A really distinguished coffee from the Yirgacheffe region is luminous, extraordinary, as great and distinctive as any in the world, yet it is likely to sell for routine, everyday specialty coffee prices.

The Harrar Exception

Note that these glowing affirmations apply mainly to the coffees of southern and western Ethiopia (traded through the capital Addis Ababa, including the most famous market names Yirgacheffe and Sidama/Sidamo) and not necessarily to the coffees of eastern Ethiopia, which are traded through the city of DireDawa and are sold under the market name Harrar (also Harar, Harer or Harari). Harrars more resemble the coffees of Yemen than the coffees of southern and western Ethiopia; they are produced from indigenous tree varieties naturalized to the rather arid growing conditions of the Harrar region and are almost always processed by the dried-in-the-fruit or natural method.

Unlike the relatively dynamic coffee industries of south and west Ethiopia, Harrar has languished over the past two decades with little innovation or improvement in quality. Many Harrar coffee farmers now prefer to grow khat, a tree whose fresh leaves are chewed as a stimulant, and which offers them year-round income rather than seasonal income, as does coffee.

At this writing, one only occasionally sees Harrar coffees in the North American specialty market, although they may be a bit more common in northern Europe. Hopefully Harrar will find the leadership and partners it needs to bring it back into specialty coffee as the great and honored origin it was 40 years ago.

Ethiopia Growing Regions

The coffee-name geography of Ethiopia is changing. Overlaid on the traditional regional names— particularly Yirgacheffe and Sidama (or Sidamo), both celebrated names in recent coffee history — are more lately established names for regions, zones and districts aimed at reflecting and honoring various Ethiopian traditional or tribal identities. These newer names form the backbone in the complex ECX grading system. On bags and websites, you may find the old, generalized regional naming or the newer, more ethnically correct terminology, or both. Or the main descriptor simply may consist of the name of one of the many well-known cooperatives or wet mills.

Ethiopia Coffee Ratings and Reviews

The Ethiopia coffees reviewed below are listed in reverse chronological order by review date. Only reviews published in the past five years are displayed. Click here to view older reviews of coffees from Ethiopia. Older reviews may no longer accurately reflect current versions of the same coffee.


92

Ba Yang Coffee

Ethiopia Gediyo Kochere Shifo Washed G1

Review Date: Mar 2022
Price: NT $160/227 grams

Spice-toned, floral. Lavender, almond, apricot, fresh-cut fir, brown sugar in aroma and cup. Crisply sweet structure with brisk acidity; velvety mouthfeel. Wood-framed finish with undertones of lavender and almond.

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95

Kakalove Cafe

Ethiopia Natural Guji Dasaya SP

Review Date: Mar 2022
Price: NT $350/8 ounces
KakaLove Logo

Deeply aromatic, richly nuanced. Dried mulberry, dark chocolate, hazelnut brittle, wisteria, Meyer lemon zest in aroma and cup. Sweet-tart structure with bright, juicy acidity; syrupy-smooth mouthfeel. Cocoa- and floral-toned finish with undertones of hazelnut and Meyer lemon zest.

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94

SkyTop Coffee

Ethiopia Anaerobic Shantawene

Review Date: Mar 2022
Price: $20.00/12 ounces
SkyTop Coffee Logo

Vibrantly sweet, gently fermenty. Lime zest, tea rose, cocoa nib, sandalwood, a hint of aged Tequila in aroma and cup. Brightly sweet with high-toned acidity; plush, syrupy mouthfeel. In the finish crisp cocoa nib balances the fruit.

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94

Jaunt Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Bensa Asefa Qonqana

Review Date: Mar 2022
Price: $26.00/12 ounces

Juicy, bright, delicate, balanced. Apricot, dark chocolate, lilac, maple syrup, almond butter in aroma and cup. Crisply sweet-tart with crisp, citrusy acidity; vibrantly silky mouthfeel. Chocolaty, fruit-toned finish with hints of lilac.

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94

Magnolia Coffee

Ethiopia Durato Bombe

Review Date: Mar 2022
Price: $19.00/12 ounces
Magnolia Coffee logo

Richly fruit-forward, deeply chocolaty. Dried mango, chocolate fudge, wisteria, cedar, pistachio in aroma and cup in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart structure with winy acidity; plush, syrupy mouthfeel. The rich-toned finish consolidates to notes of dried mango, chocolate fudge and cedar.

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93

Tipico Coffee

Ethiopia Karamo Natural

Review Date: Mar 2022
Price: $17.75/12 ounces

Gently sweet-tart, citrus-toned. Cocoa nib, tangerine, lilac, mango, cedar in aroma and cup. Richly sweet structure with brisk acidity; full, syrupy mouthfeel. The quietly tart finish consolidates to cocoa-toned mango and cedar.

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92

Paradise Roasters

Hawai’i Ka’u Classic Dark

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: $20.00/4 ounces

Roast-rounded, chocolaty, fruit-forward. Scorched cedar, Nutella, molasses, dried plum, magnolia in aroma and cup. Sweet structure with very gentle acidity; plush, creamy mouthfeel. The finish consolidates around Nutella and magnolia with a hint of smoke.

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92

Jaunt Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Hambela Goro

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: $25.00/12 ounces

Brightly sweet, deeply pungent. Amber, red currant, baking chocolate, violet, cedar in aroma and cup. Sweet-toned structure with brisk acidity; crisp, silky mouthfeel. The finish consolidates around amber and currant notes with crisp chocolate undertones.

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94

JBC Coffee Roasters

Shakiso Natural

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: $19.00/12 ounces
JBC Coffee Roasters Logo

Deeply aromatic, richly sweet-tart. Black cherry, honeysuckle, hazelnut butter, baking chocolate, tangerine zest in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart structure with fruit-toned, winy acidity; full, syrupy-smooth mouthfeel. Finish consolidates to notes of hazelnut and baking chocolate with support from black cherry.

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93

Satur Specialty Coffee

Yirgacheffe Specialty Coffee

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: NT $370/225 grams

Richly sweet, berry-toned. Strawberry, magnolia, orange zest, dark chocolate, cedar in aroma and cup. Sweet-tart structure with bright, juicy acidity; velvety-smooth mouthfeel. The finish consolidates to notes of strawberry and dark chocolate with cedar undertones.

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93

VERYTIME

COE Sidama Bona 74110

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: NT $450/8 ounces

Sweetly fruit-forward, deeply aromatic. Passion fruit, tangerine zest, cocoa nib, lemon verbena, agave syrup in aroma and cup. Sweet-tart structure with vibrant acidity; satiny-smooth mouthfeel. The finish centers around notes of tangerine with cocoa undertones.

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93

VERYTIME

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Adorsi G1

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: NT $450/8 ounces

Deeply sweet, intense, perfumy. Guava, ripe banana, chocolate fudge, oak, lily in aroma and cup. Juicy-sweet and lactic (yogurty) in structure with pleasingly tart acidity; syrupy-smooth mouthfeel. Crisply sweet finish consolidates to notes of chocolate fudge, lily and oak.

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91

VERYTIME

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe G1

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: NT $300/8 ounces

A friendly, accessible natural-processed Ethiopia cup: crisply sweet, deeply chocolaty, with hints of spicy florals throughout.

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95

Red Rooster Coffee Roaster

El Salvador Finca Mileydi Pacamara

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: $24.99/12 ounces

Richly sweet-savory. Mulberry, lemon verbena, dark chocolate, pink grapefruit zest, magnolia in aroma and cup. Crisply sweet structure with vibrant, balanced acidity; plush, syrupy mouthfeel. Chocolaty finish with undertones of magnolia and pink grapefruit zest.

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93

Home in Harmony

Ethiopia Gediyo Yirgacheffe Gedeb Worka Banko Gotiti Natural

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: NT$350/227 grams

Crisp, balanced, richly sweet. Dried blackberry, agave syrup, hop flowers, almond nougat, cocoa nib in aroma and cup. Sweet-savory structure with lively acidity; full, satiny mouthfeel. Notes of agave syrup and blackberry lead in the finish, with support from inviting bittersweet, hop-like florals.

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94

Cafe Red Bean Shop

Hunkute by Nordic Approach

Review Date: Feb 2022
Price: NT $500/227g

High-toned, floral-driven. Star jasmine, bergamot, red plum, cocoa nib, sandalwood in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart with vibrant, juicy acidity; delicate, silky-smooth mouthfeel. In the finish, star jasmine and cocoa nib give way to bergamot and sandalwood.

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96

Kakalove Cafe

Ethiopia Natural Sidama TAMIRU 74158

Review Date: Jan 2022
Price: NT $400/4 ounces
KakaLove Logo

Provocatively sweet, richly floral, musky. Aromatic orchid, cocoa nib, finger lime, fine musk, toffee in aroma and cup. Elegantly tart in structure with bright, juicy acidity; crisp yet syrupy mouthfeel. Very long, flavor-laden finish.

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95

JBC Coffee Roasters

Bedhatu Jibicho Natural

Review Date: Jan 2022
Price: $20.00/12 ounces
JBC Coffee Roasters Logo

Richly fruit-toned, balanced. Raspberry, pink peppercorn, star jasmine, cocoa nib, lemon-thyme in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart structure with vibrant acidity; creamy-smooth mouthfeel. The sweetly herb-toned finish leads with notes of raspberry and cocoa nib.

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95

Kakalove Cafe

Ethiopia Natural Guji DoReMi

Review Date: Jan 2022
Price: NT $210/8 ounces
KakaLove Logo

Evaluated as espresso. Concentrated, sweet-tart-savory. Candycap mushroom, mulberry, sandalwood, almond nougat, ginger blossom in aroma and small cup. Creamy-viscous mouthfeel; intensely sweet-tart finish. In three parts milk, tart fruit and umami notes mingle with nut-toned caramel.

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93

JBC Coffee Roasters

Gigesa Ethiopia

Review Date: Jan 2022
Price: $19.00/12 ounces
JBC Coffee Roasters Logo

Bright, citrusy. Lime zest, cocoa nib, lychee, marjoram, freesia-like flowers in aroma and cup. Lively structure with crisp acidity; satiny, viscous mouthfeel. The finish consolidates to notes of lime zest and marjoram.

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