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REVIEWS FOR:

Roasters' Choices

By Kenneth Davids
February 28th, 2003

91

CC's Coffee

Papua New Guinea, Medium Dark

Review Date: Feb 2003

Exquisitely balanced cup. Delicately acidy and sweet with clean, high-toned fruit that nods gently at chocolate. Restrained yet complex; precious. Green buyer Carl Leonard finds this coffee "exhibits all the best attributes [that this] origin should deliver."

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91

Neighbors Coffee

Ethiopian

Review Date: Feb 2003

Deeply, richly acidy, but without any edge unblunted by an enveloping, buffering sweetness. Surprisingly heavy body; a shimmering cocktail of pineapple, pear, citrus and floral notes in the nose. Neighbors green buyer and quality assurance manager Chris Palmer tags these elusive notes "apricot-like ... with a hint of spice."

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90

Flying Goat Coffee

Kenya AA

Review Date: Feb 2003

A sweet Kenya, seductive rather than severe with its balanced acidity and delicate, quietly complex citrus and floral tones.

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90

Intelligentsia Coffee Roasters

Panama La Torcaza

Review Date: Feb 2003

Intense but balanced acidity, medium body, and tartly sweet fruit notes --berry and citrus -- that soften toward chocolate in the finish. Director of Coffee Geoff Watts praises this coffee's "grace and completeness."

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90

Peet's Coffee and Tea

New Crop Pacific Blend

Review Date: Feb 2003

An almost impossibly sweet, smooth dark roast, cleanly roasty, without bitterness. Complex but almost subliminal hints of meaty fruit, apricot perhaps, with patience suggest chocolate.

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90

Timothy's World Coffee

Colombia La Vereda

Review Date: Feb 2003

Powerfully but sweetly acidy, rich, with distinct red wine and cherry tones. Seductive but challenging.

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89

Timothy's World Coffee

Nicaragua La Union

Review Date: Feb 2003

Relatively light roasted but deep toned, with big body, rich, cabernet-like acidity, and a black-cherry fruit that saturates the profile from bottom notes to top. Timothy's Director of Coffee Bill Herne praises its "complex flavor and sweet finish."

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89

Intelligentsia Coffee Roasters

Kenya Thiriku

Review Date: Feb 2003

Relatively light bodied but intensely dry and richly astringent, with an austere pineapple- and grapefruit-toned fruit. The finish, like the cup, is astringent but exhilarating. Director of Coffee Geoff Watts admires this Kenya's "pristine character" and its "dynamic and elegant acidity."

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89

Torreo Coffee

Breakfast Blend

Review Date: Feb 2003

Rich and dryly acidy with a deep, backgrounded sweetness. Mildly fermented wine tones turn maraschino cherry chocolate in the long, complex finish. The ferment tones contribute splendidly in this blend, which improves as it cools.

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88

Flying Goat Coffee

Galapagos

Review Date: Feb 2003

A rich, low-key, satisfying cup dominated by an unusual complex of flavor notes associated with coffee from trees of the heirloom Bourbon variety. This is a dry fruit character that suggests wine at one moment, at another tart berries, at another pipe tobacco, at still another a roasty but sweet chocolate. Owner and green buyer Philip Anacker cites its "gentle acidity and distinct flavors."

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88

Peet's Coffee and Tea

JR Reserve Blend

Review Date: Feb 2003

The balanced dark roast is so tactful that even some acidity survives. Shimmering inside the dominant roastiness are tantalizing shimmers of flowers, a gentle, generalized fruit, and rounded citrus notes, grapefruit perhaps. A slight astringency in the long, rich finish reduced the rating for me, but other coffee drinkers may find this sensation bracing.

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88

Torreo Coffee

Costa Rica

Review Date: Feb 2003

The roast nicely develops the clean, classically simple Costa Rica profile, rounding the sweet but authoritative acidity and turning a hint of fruit tartly pineapple-toned. Torreo owner Eric Patrick finds "floral [and] rich Burgundy" notes in this versatile cup.

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86

Stockton Graham & Co

Outerbanks Blend

Review Date: Feb 2003

Sweetly and robustly roasty. Musty tones, probably from the Sulawesi, hover between a sort of spice and a pleasantly dry chocolate, contributing an edge of intrigue to the pleasant balance of roastiness and rounded acidity. Roastmaster Brandon Riggs cites this blend's "tangy brightness and ... smooth body."

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86

Café Rey

Sanchez Gran Reserva Costa Rica

Review Date: Feb 2003

Sweet, round, balanced, with a striking complex of aromatics that reads as wine or spicy fruit, figs perhaps. The finish is rich, winy, and slightly astringent.

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