By Kenneth Davids
March 13th, 2002
Gently and sweetly acidy with crisp, pear-like fruit tones that round toward sweet cocoa in the finish. The cup is shadowed by an underlying astringent bitterness.
Understated to the point of self-effacement. The aroma is subdued but sweet and enlivened with a tickle of dry, fruit-toned chocolate. In the cup round, rather deeply dimensioned, with just enough acidity to keep the cup subtle rather than banal.
When hot, an impressive dark-roast cup: balanced, sweet modulating to bittersweet in the finish; dry, prune-like fruit complications with a pleasant roasty bite. As the cup cools, however, distinct (and rather unpleasant) rubber tones emerge.
About half of a classic American breakfast cup. The acidy brightness, gently complicated by a touch of nut-toned sweetness, is there. Nevertheless, shallow in dimension and limited in range, with a hint of musty, grainy robusta lurking not very far beneath the traditional brightness.
The intentions of this blend announce themselves in the nose with extremely roasty, explicitly burned notes. In the cup the charred tones fade, giving way to a rather neutral woodiness with sweet undertones that suggest pungent spice.
Low-key to the point of neutrality. The interesting wood, leather and spice tones in the aroma are overwhelmed by a dominating woody character in the cup. Literally tastes as though it had just dribbled off a board into the cup.
Dominated by sweet grainy nut tones overlaid with a sour, musty ferment. I can think of no analogy for this odd combination of sensations because human beings normally don't consume products that are both fermented and mildewed-tasting.