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REVIEWS FOR:

Indonesias and Papua New Guineas

By Kenneth Davids
April 1st, 1999

88

Counter Culture Coffee

New Guinea Sigri

Review Date: Apr 1999

A understated but profoundly complex coffee that rewards patience. The nose is restrained, but in the cup a roundly rich pungency is balanced by pronounced sweetness and nuanced by subtle wine tones. The finish is resonant, the aftertaste long, sweet and clean.

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87

Barnie's Coffee & Tea

Java

Review Date: Apr 1999

A powerful sweetness transforms the Indonesia pungency into clear dry chocolate tones, enlivened by a touch of acidy brightness. The chocolate tones hint at spice in finish and aftertaste.

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86

Batdorf & Bronson

Java Estate

Review Date: Apr 1999

Not a trace of the twisty pungency of most Sumatras and Sulawesis here. Instead a nut-softening-to-vanilla nose, a clear, assertive floral-toned acidity, even a hint of smoke in the finish. With just a little more dimension and sweetness this coffee would be a knockout.

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84

Batdorf & Bronson

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Apr 1999

A slight pungency immediately melts in cinnamon-tending sweet spice. The solid (though not hard or heavy) profile retains a consistent character from nose through long, resonant aftertaste. The spice simplifies a bit as the cup cools.

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82

Bucks County Coffee

Papua New Guinea Sigri

Review Date: Apr 1999

An unexceptional but comfortable Pacific profile: pungent but not sharp, round, medium-bodied, with a hint of dry, wine-like fruit as the cup cools.

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81

Counter Culture Coffee

Organic Timor

Review Date: Apr 1999

A clean Indonesia profile, meaning the pungency is soft rather than oppressively hard and the balancing sweetness is substantial and fresh. An ingratiating and straightforward coffee, though short on nuance.

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81

Allegro Coffee Roasters

Sumatra Gayo Mountain

Review Date: Apr 1999

Another juxtaposition of hard-toned pungency and soft sweetness, although here the sweetness blooms with subtle floral notes in finish and aftertaste. Somewhere in the overlap of hardness and sweetness an additional little nuance emerges, a pleasant spicy tickle.

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80

Allegro Coffee Roasters

Sulawesi Kalossi DP

Review Date: Apr 1999

Another coffee in which the hard tones characteristic of many traditionally processed Indonesian coffees are precariously mellowed by an ingratiating sweetness. The combination of (perhaps musty) sharpness and sweetness hints at chocolate, particularly in the finish.

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80

Willoughby's Coffee & Tea

Sumatra Mandheling

Review Date: Apr 1999
Willoughby's Coffee & Tea Logo

A hard, baggy pungency. A sweet, soft (perhaps floral) sweetness. When the two work together we get an agreeable sweet/sharp taste that suggests chocolate. The sweet subtext prevails pleasantly in the aftertaste.

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80

Allegro Coffee Roasters

Aged Sumatra

Review Date: Apr 1999

Considerably more emphatic and complex than the Armeno aged Sumatra, apparently owing to the handling of the roast. The same hardness characteristic of many aged Sumatras of recent years is enveloped here with a soft, almost candy-like sweetness, modulating to a dry, tobaccoish finish. Sweet notes prevail in the aftertaste.

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78

Heine Brothers Coffee

Organic Timor

Review Date: Apr 1999

A hard pungency dominates the profile, but it's a rather rich, deep-throated hardness, with undertones of dry spice and a shimmer of sweetness. Possibly an over-aggressive roast burned off some of the sugars, imbalancing the cup.

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76

Armeno Coffee

Aged Sumatra Mandh. Pawani

Review Date: Apr 1999

I had difficulty deciding whether to honor the inert hardness of this coffee because it's a deliberately achieved characteristic, or condemn it as a defect because I don't find it a particularly pleasant version of the aged taste. The dominating attribute is an oppressively hard pungency that flattens and simplifies the profile. Only a delicate halo of almost subliminal sweetness lightens the cup.

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