Aged Sumatra Mandh. Pawani
I had difficulty deciding whether to honor the inert hardness of this coffee because it's a deliberately achieved characteristic, or condemn it as a defect because I don't find it a particularly pleasant version of the aged taste. The dominating attribute is an oppressively hard pungency that flattens and simplifies the profile. Only a delicate halo of almost subliminal sweetness lightens the cup.
An aged coffee with a hard pungency that flattens the profile, with only a delicate halo of subliminal sweetness in the cup. This coffee was aged by a respected exporter in the port city of Medan. To my palate, it is not a good example of the Indonesia aged cup. Perhaps the procedure was rushed or attenuated.
Who Should Drink It
Either romantics who sufficiently enjoy the exotic appeal of aging coffee to overlook this particular aged reality, or those who genuinely enjoy hard-tasting coffees.
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This review originally appeared in the April, 1999 tasting report: Indonesias and Papua New Guineas