Intense aroma and flavor, dominated by one of the most distinctive notes in coffee, a kind of earthy, pungent citrus sensation that may suggest grapefruit to some, butterscotch to others, but essentially is a pleasure that belongs to this style of coffee alone. Complicated by flowering grass, nut, dark chocolate. Balanced, integrated acidity, silky mouthfeel, sweetly rich, resonantly flavor-saturated finish.
By Kenneth Davids
April 5th, 2010
Price: $13.95 / 16 oz.
Roundly rich aroma dominated by intense, heady tones of fruit and aromatic wood. Silky mouthfeel, medium body and a bright-toned, though in no way sharp, acidity. In the cup a juicy impression and notes of cedar, grapefruit and sweet pipe tobacco, all persisting deeply into the long finish.
High-toned aroma combining elements of juicy, almost floral fruit with more pungent nuance of grapefruit, raisin and brandy. In the cup, distinctly lively acidity with continued sweetly pungent fruit, particularly a floral-edged white grape. Sweet finishing; hints of flavor reemerge in the long.
Gentle, impressively balanced cup. Nut, milk chocolate hints in the aroma. Richly sweet-toned acidity, lightly syrupy body, softly lively flavor with continued hints of nut and chocolate and a black-cherryish fruit. Rich, long, resonant finish.
Price: $12.00 / 12 oz.
Classically sweet-fermented, dried-in-the-fruit profile. Rich, fermenty raisin-toned chocolate in the aroma with aromatic wood and pungent citrus complications. In the cup gently lively acidity, lightly syrupy mouthfeel. The ferment shows a rustic sweet apple-cidery character, with hints of fresh flowering grass, molasses and dark chocolate. The chocolate in particular carries into the finish, where the cup finally betrays its sweetness with a faint hint of salty herb.
Price: $11.95 / 12 oz.
Aromatic hints of berry-like fruit mix with aromatic wood and a deep, molasses-like sweetness. Rich acidity, continuing sweetness and cedary wood in the cup, rounding toward a ripe peach. The flavor mutes but hangs on in the sweet finish.
Rich, sweet-toned aroma: flowers, hints of earth, aromatic wood, nut-toned chocolate. In the cup low-toned but vibrant acidity, silky mouthfeel, continued earth tones that take on a grapefruit-like pungency under the impact of the acidity. Some continuing hints of flowers and nut. Rich, simple finish with a hint of astringency.
Intense woodsy aroma suggesting fresh-cut pine with a hint of chocolate. Balanced acidity and smooth mouthfeel. In the cup sweet, mildly fermented fruit tones read as a heavy dark chocolate with continued crisp aromatic wood complication. Both tendencies carry into a finish in which sweetness outlasts a mild astringency.
Round if somewhat subdued fruit- and aromatic-wood-toned aroma with a hint of orange-toned chocolate. A smooth cup: silky mouthfeel, crisp acidity and continued soft notes of aromatic wood, citrus and nut. Flavors simplify in the quietly rich finish.
Price: $12.00 / 12 oz.
Sweetly pungent aroma: fresh-cut aromatic wood and an orange- or peach-toned nut. Soft acidity, lightly syrupy body, balanced, perhaps a bit simple flavor, with continued suggestions of fresh-cut wood, orange peel, peach, nut. The peach-like fruit and nut take on a dark chocolate character in the rich, slightly heavy finish.
Classic dark-roasted Sumatra. Deep, pungent aroma: aromatic wood, molasses, raisin, a hint of earth. In the cup roast-rounded acidity, slightly leanish mouthfeel, rich bittersweet balance, with softly scorched aromatic wood notes that deepen toward baker’s chocolate. Rich and sweet in the short finish; a roasty astringency shadows the long.
Mild earth-toned aroma with hints of chocolate and soft nut. Full body, creamy mouthfeel and flavors that tend toward an earthy pungency with a pronounced dark chocolate complication. The pungent edge lingers long into the dry finish.
Rich aroma: fresh cut aromatic wood, buttery nut, raisin-like fruit, a hint of sharply pungent herb. Subdued acidy; full, syrupy mouthfeel. Heavy, fermented notes in the cup read as a brandyish dark chocolate with continued complications of raisin, aromatic wood and a salty, herby edge that shadows an otherwise rich finish.
Subdued aroma: spicy aromatic wood, hints of earth, butter, dark chocolate. In the cup quiet acidity, full body, sweet-toned but simple, heavy flavor with hints of aromatic wood and earth. Simple and rich in the short finish, but fades quickly toward a slightly salty astringency.