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REVIEWS FOR:

Readers' Choices: The Lush, the Classic, the Ultra-Dark

By Kenneth Davids
June 2nd, 2006

93

Counter Culture Coffee

Bolivia Carrasco Pica del Tucan

Review Date: Jun 2006

The attraction of this coffee is a structure both powerful and elegant: richly and roundly acidy, with silky-verging-on-syrupy mouthfeel, fundamental sweetness, and ringing depth of sensation. The wispy hints of chocolate, cherry and cedar are a bonus. Reader Mike Venditto's nomination of a Counter Culture coffee was not available, so we substituted this rather similar Bolivia.

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90

Reading Coffee Roasters

Guatemala Antigua

Review Date: Jun 2006

Simple but classically appealing coffee. High-toned, sweetly spicy aroma with tight-knit suggestions of flowers, chocolate and sweet tomato that amplify in the richly acidy cup. The finish stays on the roundly hearty side of astringent.

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90

Counter Culture Coffee

Organic Fair-Trade Ethiopia Sidamo Shanta Golba

Review Date: Jun 2006

Opulently complex aroma: cherry, blueberry, dry semi-sweet chocolate, brandy. In the cup very sweet, gently rich; the chocolate grows rounder and more distinct with continued blueberry and brandy complication. The rich, dry brandy notes dominate a slight astringency in the finish.

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89

Klatch Coffee

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Bella Kara

Review Date: Jun 2006
Klatch Coffee logo

The aroma is intense and complex: cherry, blueberry, brandy, chocolate, with an underlying edge of pungently spicy cedar. All carry richly into the cup with an excitement a bit too edgy for elegance. A slight shadow of astringency lurking in the cup emerges clearly in the long finish.

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88

Batdorf & Bronson

Colombia Los Lirios Cup of Excellence

Review Date: Jun 2006
Price: NA

Fine aroma: high-toned, elegant, combining suggestions of flowers, lemon, cedar and peach in a single suave, tight-knit aromatic gesture. In the cup delicately rich, light-bodied but not lean, gently acidy. The peach-floral-lemon gesture deepens and leans toward chocolate. Only the finish is disappointing: short and slightly but distractingly astringent.

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88

Batdorf & Bronson

Omar’s Organic Blend, Fair-Trade

Review Date: Jun 2006

Gently pungent cedar and pear-toned fruit in the aroma. In the cup sweetly and richly acidy with a continued pungent edge that hints at chocolate. The long, robust-on-the-edge-of-rough finish suggests that the attractive pungency of the profile may in part be powered by a slight, felicitous mustiness in one of the blend's green coffees.

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88

Caffe Vita Coffee Roasting Co.

Organic Guatemala

Review Date: Jun 2006

A cup either pleasingly delicate or disappointingly simple depending on taste and expectation. Balanced, gentle aroma with a very fresh, foresty cedar and a suggestion of pear-toned fruit. In the cup the cedar and fruit tones finally settle into a sweet, raisin-toned chocolate. Reader Laura Cheng nominated another Central American coffee from Caffe Vita that was not available, so we took the liberty of ordering this one instead.

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88

Old Bisbee Roasters

Monte Crisol Costa Rican Tarrazu

Review Date: Jun 2006

In the aroma cedar plus flowers and roast-influenced caramel and banana notes. A roast-muted acidity gently lifts the cup, where the cedar and caramel notes persist while the banana-toned fruit notes drift toward chocolate. Quiet short finish with a slight astringency in the long. Reader Ed Escobar says he has been "impressed by the consistent quality and freshness" of the coffees he has been buying from Old Bisbee Roasters.

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87

Central Coast Coffee Roasting

SLO Roasted Coffee Morning Fog Lifter

Review Date: Jun 2006

The aroma is dominated by a very sweet scorched cedar and a spicy banana-toned fruit. Both carry nicely into the cup, which retains sweetness and a relatively rich mouthfeel despite the very dark roast. In the finish the sweet roastiness manages to outlast a slight astringency. One reader calls this the "best coffee I've ever had."

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86

Starbucks Coffee

Black Apron Exclusive Kopi Kampung Sulawesi

Review Date: Jun 2006

Very sweet-toned, quietly complex aroma: smoke, semi-sweet chocolate and tart berryish fruit notes. Little of the aromatic complexity survives in the lean-bodied cup, only wisps of nut and crisp, smoky chocolate that fade quickly in the finish, leaving behind faint sweetness and a muted astringency.

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86

The Beanstock Coffee Roasters

Sumatra Fair-Trade Organic

Review Date: Jun 2006

Deeply roasty aroma: cedar, cardamom, caramel, raisin, a hint of flowers. In the cup sweet, almost syrupy with continued caramel, raisin and floral complication. A sharp astringency shadows the cup, however, and grows in intensity as the coffee cools. The short finish is cedary and rich, but fades toward a nagging astringency in the long. Reader Sheri Flagler is a fan and regular customer of Beanstock Roasters.

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Shop for top-rated coffees at Durango Coffee Company

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Shop for top-rated coffees at Kakalove in Taiwan

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