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REVIEWS FOR:

Better than Ever: Boutique Espressos

By Kenneth Davids
May 8th, 2006

94

Klatch Coffee

Belle Espresso

Review Date: May 2006
Klatch Coffee logo

Intense aroma: brandy, chocolate, caramel. In the small cup medium in body but smooth in mouthfeel, crisply pungent yet caramelly sweet, with a tightly knit, understated complexity: brandy, caramel, cedar and flowers, hints of which persist in the roundly rich finish. Masters milk with a gentle, brandied chocolate authority.

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94

Paradise Roasters

S.O. India Sitara

Review Date: May 2006

Deep, very sweet-toned aroma, with chocolate, flowers, walnut, and a hint of carnal fruit - peach or papaya. In the small cup very full body, but not heavy - the mouthfeel is lively, almost effervescent. In flavor very sweet, very deep, with cedar and a gently spicy semi-sweet chocolate. Superb finish: long, caramelly, rich. Exerts a simple but powerful presence in milk: sweet milk chocolate with perhaps a shimmer of flowers.

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92

Caffe Pronto Coffee Roastery

Caffe Vincente

Review Date: May 2006

Vivid, sweet-toned aroma: flowers, pear, apple, shimmering over a deeper-toned chocolaty base. In the small cup smooth, full mouthfeel, but rather simple in flavor: gentle, pungent cedar with a hint of chocolate. Great presence and fine balance in milk: fresh leather, milk chocolate, a hint of flowers.

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92

Terroir Coffee

Nicaragua Madriz Cup of Excellence Single Origin Espresso

Review Date: May 2006

Delicate but deep aroma: flowers, orange, peach, with a suggestion of chocolate. In the small cup smooth, substantial mouthfeel, sweetly crisp in flavor with hints of cedar, lemon, and dry-toned peach. Resonant, impeccably clean finish. Chocolate and fresh leather in milk, with continued complicating hints of peach and orange.

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92

Paradise Roasters

S.O. Ethiopia Yirgacheffe

Review Date: May 2006

Delicately soft aroma: dusk-blooming flowers, lemon, a hint of milk chocolate and caramel. In the small cup medium to light in body but smooth in mouthfeel, with continued lemon and floral top notes working above gently pungent cedar and semi-sweet chocolate mid-tones. Sweet, long, roundly lemony finish. In milk just on the edge of thin-bodied, but the lemony chocolate flavor notes are distinctive and superb.

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91

Novo Coffee

Tawar Rouge

Review Date: May 2006

Superb fruity, caramelly aroma with distinct brandy and chocolate notes. In the small cup medium body, dominated by caramel and cedar notes with only a hint of cherryish brandy intrigue. The fruity brandy tones intensify in the finish, though with a very slight bitterish edge. They reach their apotheosis in milk, however, where they finally free themselves from their slight bitter shadow and bloom with lush, powerful expressiveness.

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91

DoubleShot Coffee

Ambergris Espresso Blend

Review Date: May 2006

Crisp, lemon- and chocolate-toned aroma with a hint of flowers. In the small cup medium in body and slightly lean but effervescent in mouthfeel. Sweet, balanced and lively in flavor, with a cedar-toned dry chocolate. Masters milk with a deep, simple authority and a sneakily lush, minty chocolate.

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90

Ecco Caffe

Brazil Fazenda Cachoeria Reserve Espresso

Review Date: May 2006

Very deep, richly fruity aroma: banana, raisin perhaps, hints of chocolate and rose-like flowers. In the small cup the body is full and syrupy, the flavor simple, deep-toned, with cedar and tart fruit notes - tamarind perhaps - the finish rich and long. Masters milk with an understated balance and a soft persistence of banana, cedar and chocolate notes.

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90

Fieldheads Coffee

Fieldheads Rock Hop Espresso Blend

Review Date: May 2006

Delicate, sweet-toned aroma: butter, flowers, the barest hints of chocolate and cedar. In the small cup medium-bodied, smooth in texture, gently and sweetly pungent in flavor with caramel and cedar notes. Simple but deep presence in milk, with pronounced semi-sweet chocolate tones and a clear hint of flowers.

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90

Barefoot Coffee Roasters

Sweetness! Espresso (Fair Trade/Organic)

Review Date: May 2006

In the aroma distinct semi-sweet chocolate notes and cherryish or raisiny fruit with a lush twist of ferment. Crisp cedar and toast notes complicate the cherry-toned chocolate in the small cup. The fruity chocolate persists in the splendid short finish, though a shadow astringency barely implied in the cup eventually dominates in the long. In milk a slightly lean body is more than made up for by crisp toasted rice notes and a voluptuous, milk-softened version of the fruity-fermented chocolate.

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90

DOMA Coffee Roasting Company

Ruby’s Organic Espresso

Review Date: May 2006

Simple but deep aroma with distinct berry notes - blueberry or blackberry - and a hint of milk chocolate. In the small cup substantial body with a lively, effervescent mouthfeel and toast, cedar and continuing berryish fruit notes. The berry notes persist in the very slightly astringent finish. In milk the berry notes round and soften toward a lush banana-toned chocolate.

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89

Colter Coffee

Wakeman Espresso

Review Date: May 2006

Balanced but subdued aroma: smoke, flowers, a hint of peach-toned fruit. In the small cup heavy-bodied with rounded cedar and raisiny fruit notes and hints of flowers, red wine and chocolate. Resonant finish with excellent flavor persistence. Distinct and pleasing milk chocolate presence in milk.

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89

Stone Cup Roasting

Full Natural Espresso Blend

Review Date: May 2006

Sweet-toned, round, caramelly aroma with hints of flowers and pears or peach. In the small cup full-bodied with a dominating sweet, cedary pungency complicated by raisiny fruit and dark chocolate with a slight whiff of brandyish ferment. In milk balanced and rich, with continued semi-sweet chocolate, richly grapy ferment and even a surprising resurfacing of flowers.

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