Blind Assessment: Deep, very sweet-toned aroma, with chocolate, flowers, walnut, and a hint of carnal fruit - peach or papaya. In the small cup very full body, but not heavy - the mouthfeel is lively, almost effervescent. In flavor very sweet, very deep, with cedar and a gently spicy semi-sweet chocolate. Superb finish: long, caramelly, rich. Exerts a simple but powerful presence in milk: sweet milk chocolate with perhaps a shimmer of flowers.

Notes: S. O. (for Single-Origin) is Paradise Roaster's designation for its new line of espressos based on green coffees from distinguished single growing regions. In this case the single origin is, yes, a pure robusta. It is, however, an India wet-processed example of this controversial coffee species, high-grown (for a robusta) and impeccably processed. Paradise Roasters prides itself on roasting and shipping coffee only after orders are placed. Its metaphoric mission is to bring some paradisiacal warmth from the coffee-growing south to the cool environs of Minnesota. Visit www.paradiseroasters.com or call 763-433-0626 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Robusta-bashers willing to put their ideology to the test.