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REVIEWS FOR:

Colombia Runs the Table: Twelve at Ninety

By Kenneth Davids
February 5th, 2006

94

The Roasterie

Colombia Pitalito Estate

Review Date: Feb 2006

A classically lyric coffee. The aroma is intense and enveloping, with spicy ripe tomato, bittersweet chocolate, caramel, and banana-like fruit notes. The ripe tomato and dark chocolate notes carry into a cup shimmering with sweet, wine-toned acidity and the unusual banana-like fruit notes, which even seem reflected in the pleasant viscosity of the mouthfeel.

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93

Terroir Coffee

Colombia La Esperanza

Review Date: Feb 2006

High-toned, delicate aroma, with sweet flowering grass and cherryish coffee fruit notes, hints of flowers, milk chocolate, apple-toned pipe tobacco. In the cup rich but still delicate with flower and apple notes and a wine-like, or perhaps apple cider-like, character, crisp yet lush. Clean, sweetly tart finish.

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93

Coffee Emergency

Colombia Inza Cauca

Review Date: Feb 2006

In the aroma distinct semi-sweet chocolate, caramel and floral notes, with a hint of ripe tomato. Quiet but lush in the cup, with floral notes enveloped in a voluptuous milk- chocolate- and caramel-toned fruit that persists in the gently rich finish.

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92

Don Francisco's Coffee

Colombia Supremo

Review Date: Feb 2006

Very sweet-toned, intense aroma with distinctly buttery vanilla notes and hints of chocolate, honey and flowers. In the cup sweetly and richly acidy. The fundamental flavor complex is a chocolaty coffee fruit with heady complications of vanilla, flowers and honey.

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92

Coffee Masters

Colombian Los Idolos

Review Date: Feb 2006

A contradictory but balanced profile: The sweetly winy acidity is rounded by a cedar-toned roastiness, with raisin, apple, semi-sweet chocolate and caramel complications. Raisin is particularly prominent in the deep, gently roasty aroma, chocolate in the finish.

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92

Intelligentsia Coffee

Colombia Tres Santos Micro-Lot Melange

Review Date: Feb 2006

Very deep, resonant aroma, with distinct floral and cherry-toned coffee fruit notes, buttery chocolate, and a slight, bracing suggestion of fresh-cut cedar. In the cup giddily and sweetly acidy, with continued clear, intense floral notes and a Chardonnay-like fruit. A hint of butter and, as the cup cools, ripe tomato. The cleanly rich finish stiffens just slightly as the cup cools.

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91

A&E Roastery

Colombian Organic Medium Roast

Review Date: Feb 2006

Musty earth tones of the kind typical of Sumatras rather than Colombias complicate an otherwise sweet, richly acidy cup. The musty tones read as a cedary spice, perhaps black pepper, and are enveloped in a deep chocolate richness with some slight, vanilla-toned top notes. Sweet finish with a gentle balancing astringency.

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91

Stone Cup Roasting

Colombia Inza Cauca

Review Date: Feb 2006

A soft, opulently ingratiating coffee. Sweet-toned aroma with distinct banana/peach notes and a hint of milk chocolate. In the cup medium-bodied but silky in mouthfeel, with a lush, sweet acidity, floral top notes and chocolate, peach and ripe tomato tones influenced by a slight smokiness.

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91

Stumptown Coffee Roasters

Colombia La Balvanera

Review Date: Feb 2006
Price: NA

Flowers dominate in the lush, buttery, apple- and cherry-toned aroma. Gently and sweetly acidy in the cup, light-bodied, delicately rich, with more giddy floral notes, a sweet, orangy citrus, and an underlying roundly chocolaty fruit. Richly delicate finish.

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90

Flying Goat Coffee

Colombian Huila Valencia

Review Date: Feb 2006

A classic, cherryish sweet ferment runs lushly from aroma through finish. In the aroma the sweet ferment reads as an expansive cherry-toned milk chocolate; in the cup it takes on a Cabernet character, though still chocolaty. The short finish is superb: rich, deep, sweet, chocolaty. Slight astringency in the long finish. The ferment tones remain sound and sweet as the cup cools.

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90

Boca Java Gourmet Coffee & Tea

Cool Breeze Colombian

Review Date: Feb 2006

Delicately complex, high-toned aromatics are the glory here. Giddily fruity aroma, with distinct vanilla notes and suggestions of white wine, custardy caramel, flowers, chocolate. In the cup delicate and very sweet, with continuing floral, wine (Riesling) and semi-sweet chocolate notes. The floral delicacy carries into the slightly astringent finish. Too delicate for this world: loses some of its refreshing complexity as the cup cools.

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90

A&E Roastery

Colombian Organic Full City Roast

Review Date: Feb 2006

Sweet-toned, deeply roasty aroma, with cedar, chocolate, sweet orange and floral complication. Simplifies a bit in the cup, but displays a simple, powerful richness with muted, tight-knit complexity: chocolate, cedar, pruny dry plum. Cleanly rich in the finish.

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88

Safeway Select

Colombian

Review Date: Feb 2006

In the aroma sweetly deep-toned, slightly smoky, with suggestions of cinnamon, caramel and a round banana-like fruit. In the cup quite caramelly and sweet, gently roasty, with a slight mildewy ferment that gives the cup an earthy, cocoa-toned character. Rich, complexly cocoa-toned finish.

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87

Starbucks Coffee

Colombia Narino Supremo

Review Date: Feb 2006

The roast dominates here, deeply pungent and cedary in the aroma, with floral and Mediterranean herb top notes. Roundly and sweetly roasty in the cup, lightish in body but deep in dimension, with floral top notes and a cedary, herb-toned chocolate. Clean, rich and chocolaty in the short finish, though a burned astringency surfaces in the long, particularly as the cup cools.

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85

Starbucks Coffee

Colombia

Review Date: Feb 2006

A classic but quiet, rather lazy cup. Caramelly, richly roasty aroma with ripe tomato, cedar and sweet orange complications. Similarly quiet in the cup, with a hint of chocolate joining the tomato, orange and cedar notes. Simple but rich finish.

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