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REVIEWS FOR:

Straight Coffees from Africa

By Kenneth Davids
March 1st, 1997

93

Willoughby's Coffee & Tea

Kenya AA

Review Date: Mar 1997
Price: NA
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One more terrific, full-bore Kenya. The rich, winy acidity carries us up and out, expanding the boundaries of the profile and revealing the usual mouth-filling resonance at the heart of the coffee.

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91

Café del Mundo

Kenya AA

Review Date: Mar 1997

The characteristically powerful, Burgundy-like Kenya acidity dominates, but if you're patient an immense and subtle richness opens beneath it, assuring a long finish and a resonant aftertaste.

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90

Dunn Brothers

Kenya AA

Review Date: Mar 1997

For a Kenya, displays a relatively restrained acidity. In another coffee this gentleness might be a fault, but here it reads as understatement, a polite permission for the complexity and echoing dimension of the coffee to emerge without getting upstaged by acidy dramatics.

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90

Willoughby's Coffee & Tea

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe

Review Date: Mar 1997
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Floral and vanilla tones hover in the high-toned acidity, exciting without distracting. The acidity is authoritative despite its floral delicacy and the body surprisingly substantial, although the entire profile loses momentum in the finish.

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89

Barnie's Coffee & Tea

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe

Review Date: Mar 1997

Another flower-laced Yirgacheffe, shimmering with rose and lavender notes. Enough acidity to sustain the fruit and flower innuendoes, but rather light-bodied. Some carbon thinness seems to emerge as the coffee cools. Depending on whether you find the very pronounced flower tones a delight or a distraction, this coffee could merit anywhere from an 80 to a 100. I (roughly) split the difference.

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89

Café del Mundo

Smaldeel Estate

Review Date: Mar 1997

The only Zimbabwe in the cupping. Lighter and drier than the best Kenya, with less dimension in the cup and a somewhat more attenuated finish. The pleasure is in the superb top of this coffee, both aroma and acidity levitating with dry fruit and cinnamon tones.

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87

Barnie's Coffee & Tea

Kenya AA

Review Date: Mar 1997

The Kenya wine tones are lighter here, more Bordeaux than Burgundy. The profile is also simpler than in many Kenyas, but the high, singing tones of the acidity please until the aftertaste, when they turn slightly astringent.

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84

Caravali Coffee

Kenya AA

Review Date: Mar 1997

Carbon tones overlay the sweet fruit fragrances of this dark-roasted Kenya, dampening but not obliterating them. A remarkable body and dimension open underneath the carbon, assuring a long, complex finish.

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81

Oren's Daily Roast

Kenya AA

Review Date: Mar 1997

Some wine tones survive the dark roast to complicate the acidity. Brought along to a dark roast slowly enough to spare us burned notes, but for a Kenya not a lot of body or dimension either. The pleasure would seem to be the paradox of understated acidity and dark-roast pungency.

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81

Oren's Daily Roast

Ethiopia Longberry Harrar

Review Date: Mar 1997

Impressive complexity for such a dark-roasted coffee. Prune and vanilla tones grace the aroma, while a fruit-nuanced acidity dominates in the cup. As the coffee cools suggestions of ferment surface in the fruity acidity.

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79

Dunn Brothers

Ethiopia Sidamo

Review Date: Mar 1997

The high-pitched fruit and vanilla tones in the aroma deepen to herbal wildness in the cup, then to hints of ferment in the finish. Sufficient body but not much dimension.

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74

Caravali Coffee

Ethiopia Sidamo

Review Date: Mar 1997

Pungent, chocolate notes enliven the aroma, but in the cup burned tones dominate. The body is decent, but in the aftertaste the carbon prevails completely.

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Shop for top-rated coffees at Durango Coffee Company

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Shop for top-rated coffees at Amavida Coffee Roasters

Shop for Top-rated coffees at Barrington Coffee Roasters

Shop for top-rated coffees at Kakalove in Taiwan

Shop for top-rated coffees at GoCoffeeGo

Shop for 93-point Yemen coffee at Baba Java

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