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REVIEWS FOR:

Better Than You Think: Decaffeinated Espressos

By Kenneth Davids
March 5th, 2007

94

Caribou Coffee

Natural Decaf Espresso

Review Date: Mar 2007

A powerful, fruitily complex, syrupy-bodied espresso. Candied fruit and distinct chocolate in the aroma. In the small cup heavy bodied; cedar and orangy fruit notes dominate, with a hint of semi-sweet chocolate. At its best in milk, where it is rich, smooth-bodied and balanced, while maintaining a remarkable complexity and a distinct chocolate and spicy orange fruit character.

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94

The Supreme Bean

Decaf Organic Caffe Volcan

Review Date: Mar 2007

A fine, versatile decaffeinated espresso particularly remarkable for its persistent floral top notes. In the aroma flowers, chocolate and apricot-toned fruit. In the small cup full body with perhaps a slightly rough mouthfeel, pungent, rich and balanced, with continuing semi-sweet chocolate and floral notes that carry into the finish. Blooms nicely in milk with minty chocolate sweetness while still maintaining the attractive floral and fruit complication.

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93

Fidalgo Bay Coffee

Decaf Roastmaster’s Choice Espresso

Review Date: Mar 2007

A fine fruity-fermented style espresso in decaffeinated format. The sweet fermented fruit notes (I would guess from a dried-in-the-fruit East African green coffee component) read as blueberry with chocolate and ripe banana tones in both aroma and small cup. Excellent body, rich chocolate in the finish. A slight salty sensation that often accompanies fruity ferment hardly matters in the small cup, but seems to dampen sweetness in milk, where this exciting espresso doesn?t quite live up to its full chocolate-blueberry promise.

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92

Portland Roasting

SWP Decaf Espresso

Review Date: Mar 2007

Sweet-impressioned, deep aroma with a wonderfully candied, chocolaty tone to the fruit. In the small cup medium in body but smooth in mouthfeel with a deep cedar and continued candied fruit character. Surprisingly crisp, citrusy finish. Gentle and balanced in milk, blooming with milk chocolate and flowers, quiet but complete.

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92

Terroir Coffee

Decaf Espresso, Costa Rica La Lapa

Review Date: Mar 2007

Crisp, elegant espresso with dry berry and floral notes. Shows a hint of sweet, tomato-toned acidity in the aroma along with caramel and flowers. In the small cup surprisingly full-bodied with cedar, dry berry and a continuing shimmer of flowers. Clean, rich finish. Masters milk with a delicate, dry-chocolate-toned authority. The floral notes survive with startling clarity in milk, persisting far into the finish.

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91

Fieldheads Coffee

Fieldheads Espresso Decaf

Review Date: Mar 2007

A quiet, complete espresso, short on drama but almost flawless in detail. Delicately complex aroma, with crisp chocolate and cedar and butter notes that together read much like butterscotch. In the small cup medium-bodied but very smooth in mouthfeel with almost no astringency and a sweet, chocolaty fruit and gentle cedar. Delicate but very sweet in milk with continued crisp chocolate and cedar notes and a cleanly rich finish.

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91

Zingerman's Coffee

Detroit St. Decaf

Review Date: Mar 2007

A versatile espresso with a pungent authority that should serve particularly well in big milk drinks. Slightly spicy, apricot- or mango-toned fruit in the deeply sweet-impressioned aroma. In the small cup displays full, syrupy body and a rather opulently sweet, chocolate-toned richness with a balancing cedar pungency. Slight astringency in the long finish. In milk rounds and blossoms nicely but dominates with semi-sweet chocolate authority and a slight but discernible astringent edge in the finish.

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90

RayJen Coffee

RayJen Roasters Reserve Decaf Espresso

Review Date: Mar 2007

Deep but crisp aroma with impressive complexity: honey, caramel, semi-sweet chocolate, flowers, a hint of cedar. Medium to full body in the small cup with continued caramel and chocolate notes and pronounced, rather sharp cedar. In milk the chocolate rounds and blossoms sweetly, complicated by a continued crisp cedar and the reappearance of a floral shimmer at the top of the profile.

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90

Batdorf & Bronson

Dancing Goats Decaf

Review Date: Mar 2007
Price: NA

Sweet-toned, very deep aroma with complication that reads as banana, orange, semi-sweet chocolate. In the small cup full bodied and cedar- and caramel-toned with continued suggestions of banana-like fruit and semi-sweet chocolate. The cedar and chocolate tones round and sweeten in milk without losing their crisp authority.

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89

PT's Coffee Roasting Co.

PT’s Decaf Espresso Blend

Review Date: Mar 2007

Balanced, versatile blend. Sweet-toned aroma with fruit and chocolate complications. In the small cup smooth and close to syrupy in mouthfeel, sweet and gently pungent with a pronounced cedar note and hints of prune and semi-sweet chocolate. Rich presence in milk - perhaps more cedar and mint than chocolate but roundly sweet nonetheless. Very slightly rough finish in both small cup and milk.

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89

Don Francisco's Coffee

Decaf Espresso Roast

Review Date: Mar 2007

Lush in flavor but slightly lean in body and presence. Elegant blueberry- and chocolate-toned nose with a hint of cedar. In the small cup medium-bodied with a touch of sweet acidity and continued berry, cedar and dark chocolate notes. A bit thin-presenced in milk, though the sneakily persistent dark-chocolate, cherry-brandy opulence stays around nicely.

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89

Mud Bay Coffee

Transatlantic Decaf

Review Date: Mar 2007

A tough, robust espresso. Sweetly and roundly smoky aroma with hints of semi-sweet chocolate. In the small cup full body with slightly rough mouthfeel, simple and richly pungent with continued hints of dark chocolate and a surprisingly clean, sweet finish. At its best in milk, where the semi-sweet chocolate rounds and dominates with minty richness.

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88

The Roasterie

Organic Fair-Trade Espresso, Swiss Water Decaf

Review Date: Mar 2007

Rather delicate, toasty aroma with hints of low-acid fruit - banana, chocolate. In the small cup medium to full body, with a crisply smoky, toasty character complicated by caramel and continued banana notes and a hint of flowers. The finish stays just on the rich side of rough. Rounds and blossoms in milk but remains roasty - think chocolate on toast - with a continued lean toward a banana-like fruit.

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88

Atomic Cafe Coffee Roasters

Black Phantom Decaf Espresso

Review Date: Mar 2007

Deeply rich aroma with fruity chocolate and cedar complication. In the small cup the cedar notes dominate, backgrounding the chocolate and fruit. Full body but slightly rough mouthfeel; rich and slightly sharp in the short finish, but in the long smoothes out nicely with a final memory of chocolate. The cedar and chocolate carry into milk, the cedar dominating but the chocolate-fruit side blooming nicely.

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