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REVIEWS FOR:

Undervalued Beauty: The Coffees of Papua New Guinea

By Kenneth Davids
March 7th, 2006

93

The Roasterie

Papua New Guinea – Kimel Estate

Review Date: Mar 2006

Sweet-toned, delicate aroma with butter notes and hints of chocolate and Mediterranean spice. Even sweeter in the cup, still delicate but rich, softly acidy and quietly complex with distinct floral notes and a crisp, subtle fruit that suggests Riesling table wine or perhaps black currant. The fruit notes turn toward cocoa in the long, continuing sweet finish.

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91

Caffe Artigiano-49th Parallel Roasters

Papua New Guinea Bunum Wo Peaberry

Review Date: Mar 2006

Delicate but deep aroma, with chocolate, pipe tobacco and leather notes. In the cup earthy but richly sweet, almost sugary, with cherry fruit notes that acquire a chocolate depth in the profoundly sweet finish.

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91

Island Joe's Gourmet Coffee

Beemer’s Papua New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Delicate aroma with softly pungent cedar and sweet tomato notes. In the cup gently and crisply acidy, with distinct floral notes and coffee fruit that reads as a tart, chocolate-toned cherry. A simple but very pure coffee expression.

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90

Paradise Roasters

Papua New Guinea Arokara

Review Date: Mar 2006

Sweetly smoky, deep-toned aroma with fruit notes that suggest a sort of chocolaty papaya. In the cup deeply and fundamentally sweet, with spicy, smoky tones and a lush fruit that again suggested chocolate, but with a sweet grapefruit cast. Clean, rich, long finish.

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Visit Paradise Roasters
90

Surf City Coffee

Fair-Trade Organic New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Softly low-toned fruit - bananas, semi-sweet chocolate - with a twist of cedar in the aroma. In the cup sweetly earthy with a fruit that displays a hint of ferment. Together this package reads as an earthy orange or raisin with a lean toward semi-sweet chocolate. Quietly rich, slightly rough finish with a pleasingly persistent earthy chocolate character.

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89

Community Coffee

Private Reserve Papua New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Sweetly smoky, cedary aroma with a hint of semi-sweet chocolate. In the cup a particularly full body and creamy mouthfeel, sweetly and richly acidy, but with limited nuance - hints of cedar and tart cherry, perhaps a continuing suggestion of semi-sweet chocolate. Simple but sweetly rich finish.

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88

Little City Coffee Roaster

New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Very sweet, caramelly aroma with milk chocolate notes and hints of earth and cedar. In the cup richly acidy, with continued caramel and milk chocolate notes. Rather limited in nuance but not a lazy cup; a simple, straightforwardly pleasing gesture.

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88

The Supreme Bean

Organic Papua New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Deep, sweet-toned, buttery aroma with a spicy, cedary chocolate and a hint of fruit, pear perhaps. In the cup delicately robust, with a roundly lush but continuing spicy, cedary, almost black-peppery chocolate and a suggestion of coconut, the sweet processed kind. Roundly rich finish.

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88

Zocalo Coffee House

Papua New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Simple but deep aroma, with resonant raisiny chocolate tones. In the cup lean-bodied, delicate, fundamentally sweet and rather lush but dryly smoky with a hint of fruit that reads as white wine or grapefruit. Concludes simply but richly.

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87

Intelligentsia Coffee

Papua New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Softly sweet-toned, rather simple aroma - raisin and chocolate notes. In the cup a lean but rather silky mouthfeel, with continued raisin and sweet pipe tobacco notes and a continued lean toward milk chocolate. Simple, straightforward finish with a shimmer of astringency in the long.

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86

Atomic Cafe Coffee Roasters

Papua New Guinea

Review Date: Mar 2006

Most cups of this sample were very sweet in aroma and flavor, with soft earth tones (think the odor of freshly fallen, moist leaves that have just begun to compost), and pleasingly round cherry, cocoa and caramel notes. Unfortunately one cup of five was very, very foul tasting, probably owing to a bad bean called a "stinker," so we deducted 4 points from a coffee that otherwise might merit a 90.

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