By Kenneth Davids
February 1st, 1997
This coffee is so complex at the top that it positively levitates, alive with sweet, light vanilla tones. In the finish whatever is left of the body vanishes, the vanilla tones fade, but the sweetness lingers.
The acidity doesn't immediately reveal itself in the deep, mouth-filling richness of this coffee, emerging most clearly in the powerful finish. A coffee that, in its understated complexity, seems considerably greater than its parts.
The body is full, the taste richly pungent. The carbon tones permeate, having definitively chased the acidity south, but they're rich, complex carbon tones, rather than the thin kind that whine at you from the cup.
This classic medium-dark coffee gives us solid, mouth-filling dark-roast pungency, though the carbon notes seem to co-opt its sweetness. Some acidity survives the roast, and fills out the top of the profile nicely.
The rest of the taste profile plays peek-a-boo around dominating carbon tones in this very dark roasted coffee. Nevertheless, the pungent sweetness that constitutes the upside of darker roasts prevails, particularly in the cup.
Given the medium roast, the carbon notes here are a bit of a surprise. Fortunately, the pungent sweetness also characteristic of darker roasts gives the burned, carbon notes some support, and the acidity holds its own until the finish, when it fades into the carbon.
For such a relatively light roast, not particularly acidy. In fact, once past the classically rich, fragrant nose, rather flat. Perhaps the coffee arrived a bit stale. Full-bodied enough to please those who like to ride the classic American roast profile while relegating acidity to the back seat.