Central America Reviews

A natural, vanilla-toned sweetness distinguishes a low-key but lively profile. Nut and spice notes complicate the vanilla sweetness in the aroma, but by finish and aftertaste the vanilla gently (and pleasingly) dominates. Little range or dimension; the vanilla is the main act.

Floral, fruity tones dominate, modulating to a sweet spiciness in the finish. The fruit reasserts itself in the long aftertaste. The fruitiness flirts with the over-the-top lush taste called ferment, but to my palate remains on the fresh, pleasing side of the fruit-ferment line.

A fresh, clean, delightfully natural sweetness is balanced by a drier but still fruity pungency. A fine and distinctive coffee, though memorable more for what it gives out front than what it insinuates. The profile is immediate and pleasing rather than deep.

The superb oxymoron of this coffee, powerfully sweet yet sharply pungent, is at its best in aroma and in finish, when the pungent tones soften to a distinct and pleasing spice. Rich, clean aftertaste; medium to light body.

A quietly dramatic coffee with a long development, in which a clear if understated acidity gives way to a sudden sweet lift in the cup, and nutty, pungent (perhaps smoky) notes are balanced by vanilla sweetness. All of the complex gestures remain in balance, and a silky smoothness envelops even the potentially sharp pungency.

Like so many coffees in the cupping, solid overall but short on sweetness and nuance. In this case, splendidly rich, broad-ranged aroma, decent acidity with a hint of fruit, but generally pungent and rather opaque, with only a touch of sweetness in the finish. A trace of the vanilla-toned richness that dominated in aroma re-emerges in the aftertaste.

Impressive because, unlike many of the coffees in the cupping, it displays some acidy brightness. May not generate enough sweetness to round the acidity, however, leaving the cup just a touch on the sour side. Not much nuance but solid body.

Balanced, refined, exquisitely complete, though a bit underpowered. Mild pungent tones are softened and rounded by sweetness. Clean yet resonant straight through to aftertaste.

Pleasant though restrained aroma; outstanding cup. The acidity is floral, levitating, fresh, with the floral notes sweetening and carrying into the heart of the coffee. Pleasant nuance in the upper registers and a solid bottom with suggestions of richness. Medium body.

Whether deriving from the unorthodox roasting style or the coffee itself, a spicy pungency weaves its way through this rather soft, medium-bodied profile. At moments this flavor complex suggests chocolate, at others the earthy tones associated with some Indonesian coffees, at others a dark fruitiness-just-short-of-ferment. In the context of the overall sweet, intriguing, broad range of this coffee I tolerated this taste, even liked it, though purists may find it distracting.

Liveliest and most resonant of the dark-roast samples in the cupping: Less overbearingly pungent, sweeter, with a touch of vanilla in cup as well as aroma. The entire profile deepens, smooths, and balances in the finish.

Complex, enveloping, spacious, echoing with subtle, unnameable tones and innuendoes. The acidity is solidly wrapped in sweetness and body. Surprising chocolate tones emerge as the cup cools. The aftertaste is lasting and seductively complex.

Fine vanilla-nut nose and substantial body; otherwise a coffee without much lift, nuance, or development. Muted acidity, with only a sort of pruny pungency to complicate the cup.

The aroma sweetens the dark-roast pungency with a singing hint of vanilla, but the pungent character bluntly prevails in the cup. Relatively free of carbon, but not enough sweetness to balance the pungency. For the patient a pruny softness emerges in the finish.

The slightly carbony cup seems more heavy than rich until the finish, when a deep-toned, pruny sweetness prevails, enlivened by a touch of spice or sandalwood. Things turn heavy again and a bit astringent in the aftertaste. Complex aroma, solid, buttery body.

Like so many of the coffees in this cupping, a splendid overture in the aroma (nut, vanilla, caramel), then disappointment. A slightly hard, full-bodied but monotonal cup which softens and sweetens only in the finish.

Pleasantly full, rich, low-toned, complete in the bottom registers. Ambiguous grace notes, however: They read as earthy when the coffee is hot, but turn hard and mildly unpleasant as the cup cools. Probably a storage fault. Still, a coffee with power and dimension.

The exhilarating vanilla-nut tones in the aroma together with the heavy, buttery body are the main pleasures here. Otherwise the profile is solid to the point of stolidity. The acidity is pleasant but lacks nuance, the flavor a bit monolithic, and the aftertaste clean but simple.

A low-toned sweetness balances a discreet acidity. Full body, rich spiciness in the cup. The vanilla-nut tones in the aroma resurface fleetingly in the aftertaste. Unfortunately, an additional odd taste also surfaces, particularly when the coffee is cold. This taste, perhaps a mild processing taint, lowered my rating of this otherwise excellent sample.