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92

Paradise Roasters

Hawaii Ka’u, Will and Grace Farm

Roaster Location: Ramsey, Minnesota
Coffee Origin: Ka'u growing district, southwestern corner of the "Big Island" of Hawaii.
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 55/75
Review Date: August 2007
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment: Lush, deep aroma with floral, honey and milk chocolate notes. In the cup gentle but intense acidity, syrupy mouthfeel, and a voluptuous floral and honey character deriving ultimately from the flavor of pure, ripe coffee fruit. Simple but long, honeyed finish.

Notes: Ka'u is a newly emerging Hawaii coffee growing district centered 30 miles or so south of the famous Kona region. This particular coffee, from the 7-acre Will and Grace Tabios farm, recently put a shot across the bow of its celebrated neighbor by placing 6th in the 2007 Specialty Coffee Association of America's Roasters Guild Cupping Pavilion Competition. With fruit removal and drying performed using traditional artisan methods increasingly abandoned by the larger Kona mills, bold beans and a big, sweet, classic cup, this particular Ka'u certainly rivals the best of any Kona I have cupped. (I need to note that I have been consulted on an advisory basis by some players in the emerging Ka'u coffee industry, but have had absolutely nothing to do with this coffee or its success.) Paradise Roasters prides itself on roasting and shipping coffee only after orders are placed, and has become a leading seller of competition-winning and other small-lot, elite coffees. Its metaphoric mission is to bring some paradisiacal warmth from the coffee-growing south to the cool environs of Minnesota. Visit www.paradiseroasters.com or call 763-433-0626 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A coffee considerably more Kona (sweet, balanced, softly but vibrantly acidy) than most Konas.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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Shop for top-rated coffees at Durango Coffee Company

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Shop for top-rated coffees at Amavida Coffee Roasters

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