A complex and interesting coffee rather than a perfect one. The aroma is subdued but round and sweet with a distinct cherry-toned milk chocolate. In the cup the acidity is soft but the fruit turns bracing and tartly sweet -- think the pleasantly sour sweetness of pie cherries. As the cup cools the fruit softens once again, revealing a refined but almost candyish chocolate character.
By Kenneth Davids
December 2nd, 2004
A tribute to the tartly sweet, invigorating sensation coffee insiders call acidity. In the aroma richly fruity and orange-toned; in the cup giddy with rich, high-toned acidity laced with fruit suggesting oranges and tart cherries. The acidity softens and sweetens voluptuously in the finish.
The low-toned aroma is charged with cocoa and spicy fruit (apricot?) notes. In the cup a dry-yet-sweet, almost sugary fig-like character dominates, enlivened by a soft shimmer of acidity. The finish is sweet, rich and long with chocolate and dry fruit notes.
Low-key, richly pungent aroma: raisins, dried cherries, chocolate. In the cup gently pungent, softly acidy, with a tightly knit complexity, again suggesting dried fruit - raisins, cherries, with a touch of chocolate.
In the aroma richly low-toned: cedar, sweet spice, with a hint of milk chocolate. In the cup the acidity is muted, the flavor sweet with a balancing touch of bitterness, while the milk chocolate blooms opulently. The chocolate persists in the resonant finish.
In the aroma high-toned and delicate, complicated by sweet spice and suggestions of flowers and chocolate. The cup is low in acidity and dominated by a crisp nutty fruit, raisins and walnuts perhaps, with a continuing shimmer of floral chocolate. A very slight astringency surfaces as the cup cools.
A touch of fruit ferment both pleasantly complicates and slightly mars this interesting coffee. In the cup the ferment turns the acidity pleasantly winy and bends the fruit toward a rich, brandied chocolate with raisin and caramel innuendo. The long finish is marred by a troublesome bitterness, however, probably owing to the same ferment.
In the aroma rather subdued but complex with chocolate, cherry and a bracing whiff of cedar. The cup is delicate when hot, with a lovely, lyric balance of sweetness and a gentle shimmer of acidity complicated by slightly tart, cherryish chocolate notes. As the cup cools the profile simplifies and flattens, however. I had this coffee rated 90 until it cooled.
The aroma is rich and rather deep with apple, pipe tobacco and semi-sweet chocolate notes. In the cup lively when hot, but almost immediately contracts in sensory range, turning monotoned and heavy, though still with pleasant allusions to the dry apple and chocolate notes.
The roast dominates the coffee in this extreme dark-roast profile. Intensely but roundly and sweetly charred in the aroma, with a gingery, cedarish complication. The cup is dominated by charred tones that remain just on the pleasantly rich, aromatic cedar side of flat-out burned.