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REVIEWS FOR:

Roasters without Stores

By Kenneth Davids
May 3rd, 2003

93

Coffeemaria

Guatemala Antigua

Review Date: May 2003

Medium bodied but delicate, soft, exquisitely balanced, giddy with sweet fruit tones that may suggest cherry but ultimately express the purity and elegance of a perfectly processed coffee. The finish is sweet, long, and gently rich.

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91

Julius Meinl

King Hadramaut Blend

Review Date: May 2003

A grandly acidy coffee, austerely tart yet voluptuously sweet. Complicated by hints of green apple or pie cherry, but the main expression is the huge, rich gesture of the acidity. The finish is tart but round and opulent.

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90

The Embellished Bean

Kenya AA

Review Date: May 2003

The softer style of Kenya: sweet, flirty, utterly seductive, but with a gently acidy backbone. In the aroma crisp temperate fruit tones, apple or pear perhaps, in the cup flowers and chocolate.

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87

FreshCoffeeNow.com

Peruvian Tres Cumbres

Review Date: May 2003

Delicate and soft, with a tart sweetness suggesting Meyer lemon. Supple, smooth, elegant.

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86

CoffeeAM

Yemen Arabian Mocca

Review Date: May 2003

Medium-bodied, sweet, with the typical wild, slightly fermented Yemen fruit tones, in this case suggesting overripe cherry, apricot, and melon. In the finish the fruit ferment reads as a sort of brandied, bittersweet chocolate. A slight astringency in the finish suggests that during storage this coffee faded a bit, as Yemens quickly do.

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85

California Coffee Roasters

Gourmet Blend

Review Date: May 2003

A low-toned but resonant, agreeable blend, crisp with tart, berry-toned fruit. Rather lean-bodied but rich in impression. The finish is sweet and balanced.

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85

Julius Meinl

Jubilaum Blend

Review Date: May 2003

Low-key, mild, balanced to a fault. Sweet, with the round richness of a good Viennese blend, but ultimately unexpressive and rather inert.

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84

Joe to Go

Peru Corona Royale

Review Date: May 2003

A sweet, fruity Peru that suffers from musty, mildewed tones. The mild musty influence turns the fruit and floral notes pungent, dry, and bittersweet. Pleasantly so, aside from the rather heavy finish.

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83

The Embellished Bean

Colombian Excelso

Review Date: May 2003

Moderately acidy, medium to full bodied, sweet, rich, balanced, mid-toned. Not much nuance but a sturdy cup with a juicy tickle of cleanly fermented fruit. Marred by a rather bitter finish.

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80

FreshCoffeeNow.com

Cameroon Organic

Review Date: May 2003

Very sweet and very, very musty. Somewhere behind the malty, musty/mildew tones a rich, cherry-toned coffee lurks.

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78

Coffeemaria

Ethiopian Harrar

Review Date: May 2003

A wildly flawed but perversely interesting coffee. Dramatically uneven from cup to cup, with some cups dominated by a heavy and rather oppressive Mediterranean spice character (thyme or rosemary) and others displaying less oppressive and more pleasant floral and bitter fruit tones - in the latter case, imagine bitter-chocolate-covered jasmine petals. All of this aromatic peculiarity probably derives from a combination of mildly fermented fruit with a musty overlay acquired while the still fruit-encased beans were drying.

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