Crisp rather than bright, dry rather than acidy, bittersweet, cocoaish, elegant but limited. From a well-run farm in the relatively new growing region of Cerrado. Martinez Fine Coffees is known for its elegant packaging and respectful presentation of single-origin coffees.
By Kenneth Davids
December 1st, 2000
Not acidy, but definitely dry, with a pleasantly malty, cocoaish finish and a rich little tickle of balancing sweetness. Quite agreeable, but haunted by a hint of rubbery flatness. A blend from Café La Semeuse, a much admired Swiss roaster. Roasted in Switzerland. A sticker on the bag reads “Never Bitter.”
Balanced, round, smooth, full-bodied, with a dry, pruny heaviness to the fruit and a seductive cocoa finish. A bit more sweetness would make this mouthfilling coffee a very impressive entrant in the low-acid sweepstakes. Mysore Plantation is a wet-processed coffee (the fruit is removed before the beans are dried) from the district where, in around […]
The acidity is definitely flattened. Unfortunately, everything else except body is flattened too, including sweetness. Pleasant tickles of flowers and spicy fruit survive, echoing in a Tums-toned emptiness. I treated each cup of an acidy, explosively floral- and fruit-toned Guatemala (originally rated over 90) with a little pre-measured packet of Coffee Tamer acid-buffering agent. The […]
Just enough sweetness and caramel softness survive the dark roast to balance its charred pungency. A hint of something fruity shimmers toward the top of the profile — I want to call it pineapple. The motto of Silver Canyon Coffee, a small-batch wholesale roaster founded in 1985, is “Pure Quality.”
A touch of sweet but acidy brightness survives the steam treatment, together with restrained floral and dry, wine-toned fruit notes. The understated but brisk cup is marred by a dull, salty sensation that intensifies as the coffee cools. Treated to remove acidity by a “patented, natural steaming process involving no harmful chemical solvents.” Trader Joe […]
The charred tones of the aggressive dark roast are relieved by a substantial sweetness and twisty, musty tones that publicists often label chocolate. They aren ‘t chocolate, but they can be pleasantly intriguing, as they are here. Beans are coated after roasting with acid-neutralizing agenMonsooned coffees have been exposed deliberately to moisture-laden monsoon winds in […]
Sweet, caramelly and resonant in the nose, but a smoky pungency dominates the cup and turns unpleasantly rubbery as the cup cools. Blue de Brasil is an organically grown estate coffee. A ‘Roma Roasters is a quality-oriented, small-batch roaster located just north of the San Francisco Bay Area.
Flat, dull, with a heavy, tongue-coating bitterness. The only identifiable flavor note is rubber. Beans are coated after roasting with acid-neutralizing agents, including potassium (but not including aluminum). “Full flavor — less acid!” exclaims the bag copy.