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Oceana Coffee

Sumatra Tanah Karo

Location: Tequesta, Florida

Origin: Northern Sumatra, Indonesia

Roast: Medium-Dark

Est. Price: $15.75/12 ounces

Review Date: August 2017

Agtron: 39/49

Aroma: 9

Acidity/Structure: 8

Body: 9

Flavor: 9

Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment:

Sweet/savory, chocolaty. Spicy chocolate, plum, rosemary, lightly scorched pine, lantana-like flowers in aroma and cup. Distinctly sweet/savory in structure; plushly syrupy in mouthfeel. Dries and simplifies a bit in the finish, though sweet hints of chocolate and fruit persist.

Notes:

Coffees like this one from the northern part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra are admired for their complex aromatic wood and fruit notes that appear to result largely from unorthodox fruit removal and drying practices called “wet hulling.” This coffee tied for the fourth-highest rating in a tasting of nearly 130 darker-roasted coffees for Coffee Review‘s August 2017 tasting report. Established in 2009 by Amy and Scott Angelo, Oceana brews specialty coffees that have been roasted in small batches at its roasting house and café in Tequesta, Florida. Oceana reports that its staff is obsessed with every detail of the process, from sourcing the beans to how the coffee is poured, aimed at insuring that every cup is as rich and resonant as it should be. Visit www.oceanacoffee.com for more information.

 

The Bottom Line: A rich, idiosyncratic version of an already idiosyncratic coffee type, a darker roasted wet-hulled Sumatra. We didn’t register much of the famous Sumatra earth or pipe tobacco, but we did get a big, spicy yet fudgy chocolate and a complex pungent sweetness.


This review originally appeared in the August, 2017 tasting report: Darker-Roasted Coffees: Confessions and Amends

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