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87

Mud Bay Coffee

Sumatra Mandheling Permata Gayo

Roaster Location: Olympia, Washington
Coffee Origin: Gayo growing region, Aceh Province, northern Sumatra, Indonesia.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 50/68
Est. Price: $12.00 / 16 oz.
Review Date: April 2010
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Rich aroma: fresh cut aromatic wood, buttery nut, raisin-like fruit, a hint of sharply pungent herb. Subdued acidy; full, syrupy mouthfeel. Heavy, fermented notes in the cup read as a brandyish dark chocolate with continued complications of raisin, aromatic wood and a salty, herby edge that shadows an otherwise rich finish.

Notes

Mandheling is a term variously used to describe a growing region surrounding Lake Toba in North Sumatra Province and a traditional type of wet-hulled coffee associated with that region. Here the term describes the Mandheling type, since this coffee is from the northwestern corner of Sumatra in Aceh Province, far from the Mandheling region. It is produced by Koperasi Permata Gayo, a cooperative made up of about 1,300 small farmers. The cup profile suggests further possible confusion: It reads very much like a dried-in-the-fruit or "natural" coffee, but is described by importers as processed by the typical Sumatra wet-hulled method. Mud Bay Coffee is a small-batch specialty coffee roasting company that prides itself on its sustainable, farm-direct coffee sourcing. Visit www.mudbaycoffeeco.com or call 360-754-6222 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who prefer coffee’s wilder side.

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2010 tasting report: Mysterious No More: Sumatra Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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