Montana Coffee Traders
New Guinea Certified Organic
The earthy flavor dominates the profile. Fortunately, the earth tones are pleasingly sweet and fresh, with just enough herby pungency to complicate rather than distract. The sweetness intensifies toward the finish. The hardness that sometimes sits on the profiles of back-yard-processed coffees like these is barely detectable here.
This organic is produced and processed by thousands of subsistence farmers, which probably accounts for its earthy character. The earth, however, is sweet and fresh, with herby pungency and a sweetness toward the finish. Unlike conventionally grown Papua New Guinea coffees from large estates, this organic is produced on literally thousands of tiny garden plots by subsistence farmers. It is what I call a back-yard washed coffee, meaning the fruit is removed from the beans
Who Should Drink It
One of the wonderful things about certain coffees (and cigars) is how they allow us to enjoy refined versions of odd or perverse pleasures in public. Dark-roasted coffees that smell like fresh sweat, for example, cigars that elegantly hint at manure, and in this case, a coffee that tastes like essence of sweet dirt.
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This review originally appeared in the November, 1998 tasting report: Single-Origin Organic Coffees