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91

Wonderstate Coffee

Kenya Peaberry Kaliluni Cooperative

Roaster Location: Viroqua, Wisconsin
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya.
Roast Level: Medium-Light
Agtron: 50/75
Est. Price: NA
Review Date: August 2008
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 8
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Soft, sweet-toned aroma: crisp black cherry, honey, a hint of flowers. In the cup rich acidity, syrupy mouthfeel, pungent but lush: dry berry, hints of flowers, flowering grass, herb. The dry finish remains on the rich side of astringent.

Notes

Despite national coffee leadership marked by confusion and recent social disorder, Kenya cooperatives continue to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. This sample consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. Wonderstate Coffee, formerly Kickapoo Coffee, is an award-winning roaster based in rural Wisconsin known for their commitment to guaranteeing higher pay for farmers and being the country’s first 100% solar powered roastery. Visit https://wonderstate.com/ for more information.

Who Should Drink It

A balanced but assertive Kenya, pungently acidy yet roundly sweet-toned.

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This review originally appeared in the August, 2008 tasting report: Coffees of Kenya: Still Struggling, Still Great

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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