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94

JBC Coffee Roasters

Kenya Kirinyaga Kii Peaberry Espresso

JBC Coffee Roasters Logo
Roaster Location: Madison, Wisconsin
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya.
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 37/49
Est. Price: $13.95/12 ounces
Review Date: August 2011
Aroma: 8
Body: 9
Flavor: 10
Aftertaste: 9
With Milk: 8

Blind Assessment

Evaluated as espresso. In the small cup roundly balanced but engagingly complex. Melony fruit, apple, brandy, dark chocolate suggestions in both aroma and cup. Light-footed, creamy mouthfeel; deep, cleanly resonant finish with particular persistence of the dark chocolate note. Strong presence in two parts milk, dominated by a fruit-toned bittersweet chocolate.

Notes

Produced mainly from trees of the admired, Bourbon-derived SL 28 and SL 34 varieties, this offering consists entirely of peaberries, a kind of bean that results when the coffee fruit develops only a single, oval bean rather than the usual pair of flat-sided beans. Peaberries produce a somewhat different (often better) cup than normal beans from the same crop, from which they may or may not be separated during grading. JBC Coffee Roasters (formerly Johnson Brothers Coffee Roasters) is a distinguished small-batch roasting company. Visit www.jbccoffeeroasters.com or call 608-256-5282 for more information..

Who Should Drink It

Superb straight-shot espresso, smoothly balanced yet lively in detail. Loses its balance a bit in short milk but should power through considerable dairy in taller drinks.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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