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92

Wonderstate Coffee

Kenya Karinga

Roaster Location: Viroqua, Wisconsin
Coffee Origin: South-central Kenya.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 54/67
Est. Price: $16.95/12 ounces
Review Date: December 2011
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 7
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

The dry, tartly sweet fruit sensation characteristic of the best Kenya coffees unfurls with pleasing, shape-shifting complexity: Melon, black currant, blackberry, tart orange, with floral and fresh-cut fir complications. Assertive but balanced acidity; lean mouthfeel. Smoothes out in a decidedly sweet, mango-toned finish.

Notes

Despite grower discontent and sporadic social disorder, Kenya continues to produce some of the world's most elegant and distinctive coffees. This one is produced by the Gitwe Cooperative and certified organically grown. Although the words "Fair Trade" appear on the label of the attractive 12-ounce valve-topped can, judging by the absence of trademarked seal this coffee may not be certified Fair Trade by FairTrade USA (formerly TransFair USA) the sole American certifier for the Fair Trade Labeling Organizations International (FLO). However, Wonderstate Coffee, formerly Kickapoo Coffee, is affiliated with the Fair Trade Federation, a membership (rather than certifying) organization devoted to "providing fair wages and good employment opportunities to economically disadvantaged artisans and farmers worldwide." Wonderstate Coffee is an award-winning roaster based in rural Wisconsin known for their commitment to guaranteeing higher pay for farmers and being the country’s first 100% solar powered roastery. Visit https://wonderstate.com/ for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who like their dry, briskly bright cup nuanced with fruit and natural sweetness.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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