89

Wicked Joe

Kenya AA Neguguini Estate

Location: Brunswick, Maine

Origin: South-central Kenya

Roast: Medium-Dark

Est. Price:

Review Date: July 2009

Agtron: 43/56

Aroma: 9

Acidity: 8

Body: 7

Flavor: 8

Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment:

Co-cupper Andy Newbom (91) found much to praise (and describe) in this “complex and serious” (Andy) coffee: spice, vanilla and chocolate in the aroma, peach and grape influence in the balanced acidity, more spice and molasses together with lemon and orange zest notes in the cup. “Full and sensual” mouthfeel. Ken’s (88) notes suggest he agreed with Andy on the seriousness of this coffee but harbored some reservations about its complexity. Ken found it “crisp, quiet, intense,” with night flowers and dry berry notes in the cup and a simple though rich finish.

Notes:

Despite stresses brought on by social unrest, charges of corruption and a confused transition toward an open market, the famed Kenya coffee auction system and its participating cooperatives continue to produce some of the world’s most elegant and distinctive coffees. AA is the highest grade of Kenya coffee based on bean size. This coffee was produced from trees of famous SL-28 variety, responsible for most of Kenya’s finest coffees. SL-28 is derived from a single tree that reflects both the heritage of the original Bourbon-influenced “French Mission” variety together with Ethiopian and possibly Sudanese influences. Wicked Joe is a micro-roaster based in Maine with a mission of providing their customers with “epic coffee … that is kind to both the earth and to the farmers.” Visit www.wickedjoe.com or call 888-894-2533 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A darkish roast style helps both round and mute the Kenya fruit and flowers while developing weight and authority.


This review originally appeared in the July, 2009 tasting report: Botany and the Cup: The Bourbon Conundrum

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