Blind Assessment: A quiet coffee. A subtle aromatic complex runs pleasantly through the profile from aroma through cup, so subtle it's hard to pin down with specific associations: milk chocolate and banana I wrote for the aroma; switched to butterscotch for the cup, with a stiffening hint of walnut. The acidity is gently lively; the finish surprisingly rich given the quietness of the cup.

Notes: Blawan is one of several large, traditional coffee estates originally founded by the Dutch and now operated by the Indonesian government in the mountains of East Java. Coffee Bean Direct is a roast-to-order coffee company serving both retail and wholesale customers at similar prices mainly through its Internet site. Visit www.coffeebeandirect.com or call 888-232-6711 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Admirers of the subtler type of spicy white table wines.