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REVIEWS FOR:

Sweetness and Earth: Java, Sulawesi, Bali, Timor

By Kenneth Davids
April 3rd, 2007

92

PT's Coffee Roasting Co.

East Timor Maubesse Fair-Trade Organic

Review Date: Apr 2007

Very sweet, almost sugary, with raisiny fruit notes and hints of orange and chocolate carrying with rich stateliness from aroma to cup. Syrupy body, deep, resonant finish.

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92

Morghan Rake Coffee

Bali Paradise Valley

Review Date: Apr 2007

Extraordinarily sweet-toned, lyrically delicate coffee, softly acidy, with orange, molasses, flowering grass and white wine notes. Clean, sweet, rich finish. Only a slight stiffening in the finish as the coffee cools holds this coffee back from an even higher rating.

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90

Atomic Cafe Coffee Roasters

Timor Maubesse Fair-Trade

Review Date: Apr 2007

Almost sugary sweet throughout the profile. Flowers and cedar in the aroma; the floral notes give way to a more pungent, tomatoey fruit and hints of cocoa in the cup. The sweetness carries straight into a rich short finish, fading to a mild astringency in the long.

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90

Batdorf & Bronson

Estate Java

Review Date: Apr 2007
Price: NA

A strikingly distinctive coffee that suffers a bit in the finish. Splendid aroma: sweetly and deeply pungent, with floral, chocolate and pipe tobacco notes. In the cup low-toned but vibrant acidity, crisply nut-like with distinct orange notes. The nut notes turn very slightly stiff and dusty in the finish.

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89

Coffeemaria

Java Estate Pancour

Review Date: Apr 2007

More Sumatra than Java: pungent, sweet earth notes dominate with distinct chocolate and tomato leanings. The earthy chocolate notes carry into a sweet short finish, slightly astringent long.

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88

Moore Coffee

Aged Celebes

Review Date: Apr 2007

A wonderfully sweet coffee whose lush character is balanced (or opposed) by a sharply musty earthiness. Taken together these tendencies read as a pungent citrus, grapefruit perhaps. Full body, very syrupy mouthfeel. Rich and very sweet in the short finish; in the long the musty tones introduce a mild astringency.

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88

Caffe Pronto Coffee Roastery

Java Blawan Estate

Review Date: Apr 2007

A delicate - perhaps overly so - coffee that nevertheless rewards attentiveness to its subtle, complex aromatics: floral tones and a pungent note suggesting the fresh odor of tomato vines, with background suggestions of cocoa and white wine. A heavy astringency lurks in the mouthfeel that unfortunately dominates in the long finish as the heady aromatics fade.

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88

Coffee Bean Direct

Java Blawan Estate

Review Date: Apr 2007

A quiet coffee. A subtle aromatic complex runs pleasantly through the profile from aroma through cup, so subtle it's hard to pin down with specific associations: milk chocolate and banana I wrote for the aroma; switched to butterscotch for the cup, with a stiffening hint of walnut. The acidity is gently lively; the finish surprisingly rich given the quietness of the cup.

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88

The Roasterie

Sulawesi Toraja

Review Date: Apr 2007

Deep, rich, opulently sweet-toned aroma: cedar, hints of honey and orange. Heavy body and robustly rough mouthfeel in the cup, with a pungently earthy character that reads persuasively as a sort of dry but raisin-toned chocolate. The rich depth extends to the short finish, though astringency nags in the long.

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88

Alaska Coffee Roasting

Java Blawan Estate

Review Date: Apr 2007

Sweet-toned, mildly pungent aroma: cedar, molasses, a hint of milk chocolate. Very sweet in the cup and very delicate, with wispy walnut and continued milk chocolate notes. Surprisingly robust persistence of sweetness and flavor in the short finish; some astringency in the long.

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86

Coffeemaria

Indonesia Celebes Kalossi

Review Date: Apr 2007

An extreme version of the traditional musty/earthy coffees of Indonesia, with the musty notes so intense that they seem to push the profile into a realm completely outside ordinary expectations associated with coffee. The earthy mildew character is sharply pungent but sweet throughout, with associations with other pungently sweet sensations, like grapefruit and the fresh smell of tomato vine.

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