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86

Coffeemaria

Indonesia Celebes Kalossi

Roaster Location: Addison, Illinois
Coffee Origin: Toraja (formerly Kalossi) growing region, southwestern Celebes (now Sulawesi), Indonesia
Roast Level: Dark
Agtron: 32/46
Review Date: April 2007
Aroma: 7
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 7
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

An extreme version of the traditional musty/earthy coffees of Indonesia, with the musty notes so intense that they seem to push the profile into a realm completely outside ordinary expectations associated with coffee. The earthy mildew character is sharply pungent but sweet throughout, with associations with other pungently sweet sensations, like grapefruit and the fresh smell of tomato vine.

Notes

The small-holding tribal growers of the Toraja region of the Indonesian island of Sulawesi produce coffees that, even more than the coffees of the neighboring island of Sumatra, typically express an earthy, pungent character encouraged by unorthodox fruit removal and drying processes. Coffeemaria is a roast-to-order Internet coffee retailer offering a wide variety of single-origin coffees. Visit www.coffeebeandirect.com or call 630-768-2043 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

This is a coffee for lovers of the most extreme single-malt Islay whiskies, the kind with salt, seaweed, and pungent peat.

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This review originally appeared in the April, 2007 tasting report: Sweetness and Earth: Java, Sulawesi, Bali, Timor

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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