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92

Simon Hsieh's Aroma Roast Coffees

Hawaii Ka’u Rusty’s Natural Yellow Caturra

Simon Hsieh Aroma Roast Coffees Logo
Roaster Location: Taoyuan City, Taiwan
Coffee Origin: Ka'u growing district, southwestern corner of the "Big Island" of Hawaii.
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 48/57
Est. Price: NT$3,000/16 oz.
Review Date: November 2010
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Orange, bittersweet lemon, nut, aromatic wood in aroma and cup, with complicating floral top notes. Balanced, crisp acidity; silky mouthfeel. The citrus notes in particular carry into a rich, sweet finish.

Notes

Ka'u is a newly emerging Hawaii coffee growing district centered thirty miles or so south of the famous Kona region. This is a dried-in-the-fruit or “natural” coffee produced on the farm of Lorie Obra in Ka'u from trees of the yellow caturra variety, a compact growing selection of Bourbon with yellow fruit. In addition to his retail roasting operation, Aroma Roast Coffees, Simon Hsieh also runs Soaring Phoenix Trading, a business focused on purposed-built commercial espresso blends and high quality single-origin coffees. Visit www.facebook.com/4ArtsZeroDefectCoffees or call 886-0983-749876 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

This crisp rather than lush version of the dried-in-the-fruit profile should please those who favor dry but delicate white table wines, for example.

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This review originally appeared in the November, 2010 tasting report: Brandy and Surprises: The New Naturals

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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