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92

Caffe Ladro

El Salvador La Roxanita Pulped Natural

Roaster Location: Seattle, Washington
Coffee Origin: Chalatenango, El Salvador
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 52/64
Est. Price: $16.00/12 ounces
Review Date: September 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 8

Blind Assessment

Intense, tartly sweet, richly dry. Tart berry leads in aroma and cup, softened by a minty dark chocolate and a hint of cedar. Roundly bright acidity; silky mouthfeel. Chocolate in particular carries into a sweet finish.

Notes

This lot is comprised entirely of the Pacamara variety of Arabica, a cross between the giant-beaned Maragogipe and Pacas, a selection of the heirloom Bourbon. This coffee was processed using the pulped natural variation on the honey method, meaning that the outer skin is removed as it is in the wet process, but the sticky fruit residue is allowed to dry in its entirety on the bean and later removed by machine along with the parchment skin. Caffe Ladro is a Seattle-based small-batch roaster committed to sustainably and ethically produced coffee. Visit www.caffeladro.com or call 866-343-9786 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Very sweet, quite tart; those who don’t normally care for tartly acidy coffees may be persuaded by this deep, richly subtle rendition.

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This review originally appeared in the September, 2012 tasting report: Honey and Pulped Natural Coffees

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions.

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