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REVIEWS FOR:

Ethiopias and Kenyas

By Kenneth Davids
September 24th, 2002

93

Allegro Coffee

Kenya Grand Cru

Review Date: Sep 2002

A Kenya in the grandly classic mode: intense but perfectly balanced, full-bodied, voluptuous with dry red wine and cherry tones, acidy without bitterness. The tactful medium-dark roast rounds the acidity and contributes a slight roasty note.

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90

CC's Coffee

Kenya Medium Dark Roast

Review Date: Sep 2002

Seductively rich in the nose, with pineapple and orange notes, but all business in the cup: grandly and austerely acidy with pronounced dry, cabernet-like fruit. Softens and sweetens again in the finish.

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87

Kavanaugh Coffee

Simply Yirgacheffe

Review Date: Sep 2002

The medium roast allows the character of the coffee to emerge, in this case richly and sweetly acidy, complicated by sweet nut notes and, as the cup cools, more characteristic Yirgacheffe floral and lemon tones. An unusual coffee in two respects: light roasted in a region (San Francisco Bay Area) where extremely dark roasting prevails, and rather heavy bodied for a Yirgacheffe.

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87

Ancora Coffee Roasters

Kenya AA Nyeri Tatu

Review Date: Sep 2002

The moderately dark-roast style mutes the Kenya fruit and gives it a roasty, tart pineapple twist that softens toward a toasty chocolate in the finish. The darkish roast may transform the Kenya character, but the transformation is quite pleasurable in its own right.

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86

Torreo Coffee

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Horse

Review Date: Sep 2002

The medium-dark but rather aggressive roast preserves a touch of acidity and lemony sweetness amid the dominant roasty tones. More complex than balanced, the closest sensory analogy I can propose is roasted lemon drops.

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86

Ancora Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Washed Yirgacheffe Horse

Review Date: Sep 2002

A dark-roast presentation with a splendid aroma: intense, crisply dry and fruity. In the cup, however, the roast dominates, though patient drinkers will feel a sweet, lush fruitiness behind the roasty bitterness. The halo of fruit persists in the cleanly roasty finish.

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85

Cafe Campesino

Ethiopia Limu Fair-Trade

Review Date: Sep 2002

A rather aggressive roast contributes distinct charred notes, but they are richly charred notes, with a leathery twist and a tickle of dry fruit. The astringent finish is pleasantly complicated by dry chocolate.

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85

Cafe Moto

Best of Africa Blend

Review Date: Sep 2002

Lush floral notes and suggestions of fruity chocolate are pleasantly felt behind a dominating bittersweetness that leans a bit more toward the bitter than the sweet. A floral-toned sweetness softens the astringent finish.

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84

Allegro Coffee

Ethiopian Harrar

Review Date: Sep 2002

Lush, sweetly overripe Harrar fruit notes are shadowed by salty and bitter tones. Dry chocolate in the finish.

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82

Dean's Beans

Oromia Dark Roast, Fair Trade

Review Date: Sep 2002

This very dark-roasted coffee reveals almost nothing about the potentially interesting green coffee itself except its ability to stand up to a severe degree of roast and still taste quite agreeable. The profile is roasty and charred, but pleasantly free of bitterness and haloed by sweetness.

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