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Ethiopia Coffee

Courtesy of Kenneth Davids, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide

For many, the word Ethiopia provokes visions of deserts, droughts and famines. Yet the lush, green hills of southern and southwestern Ethiopiaare more likely to strike visitors who actually go there as paradisal. And, although Ethiopia remains among the world’s poorest countries per capita, for the coffee aficionado it is perhaps the richest place on earth, the source of some of the world’s most varied and distinctive coffees. Ethiopia typically generates about 4% of the world’s coffee, but all is Arabica and much of it is impressive to extraordinary.

Click here to view Ethiopia coffee ratings and reviews

Southern and Western Ethiopia

The producing regions of southern and southwestern Ethiopia in particular stand apart from the world’s other fine coffee origins. Witness:

  • The forests of southwestern Ethiopia are the original botanical home of Coffea arabica, and they continue to harbor most of the unexplored genetic diversity still existing in the species.
  • Much Ethiopia coffee is produced from indigenous Ethiopian varieties of Arabica; these native landrace varieties display symphonic complexities in aroma and flavor that, at their most distinctive, can make even other distinctive varieties of the world — like SL28 and Bourbon — seem a bit limited in sensory range. The only currently cultivated competitor to the finest native Ethiopian varieties in respect to cup and complexity is Geisha or Gesha, which is an Ethiopia variety (a particularly brilliant one) brought to the New World.
  • Export-quality Ethiopia coffees from the south and west are almost always free of significant processing or drying taints. Fruit removal for the wet-processed coffees of these regions is performed using classic ferment-and-wash techniques carried out at well-managed, centralized wet mills or washing stations. Dry or natural-process coffees intended for the specialty market are most likely prepared with analogous care.
  • Almost all Ethiopia coffee is grown by small-holding farmers, most of whom very likely have never used chemical inputs. Not only is this reassuring to consumers, but it also makes a transition to formal organic certification relatively easy, accounting for the widespread availability of superb organic-certified Ethiopias.
  • Ethiopians deeply care about coffee and understand it. Its lore is woven into their culture. They do not produce great coffee and then go home to drink tea, as Kenyans do, or instant coffee, as sadly occurs in many of the coffee world’s other coffee-growing regions. The Ethiopians themselves consume close to half of their country’s production, most of it roasted fresh.
  • Unfortunately for the many cash-poor villages of small-holding Ethiopia farmers, but fortunately for coffee lovers elsewhere in the world, most fine Ethiopia coffees are amazing bargains. A really distinguished coffee from the Yirgacheffe region is luminous, extraordinary, as great and distinctive as any in the world, yet it is likely to sell for routine, everyday specialty coffee prices.

The Harrar Exception

Note that these glowing affirmations apply mainly to the coffees of southern and western Ethiopia (traded through the capital Addis Ababa, including the most famous market names Yirgacheffe and Sidama/Sidamo) and not necessarily to the coffees of eastern Ethiopia, which are traded through the city of DireDawa and are sold under the market name Harrar (also Harar, Harer or Harari). Harrars more resemble the coffees of Yemen than the coffees of southern and western Ethiopia; they are produced from indigenous tree varieties naturalized to the rather arid growing conditions of the Harrar region and are almost always processed by the dried-in-the-fruit or natural method.

Unlike the relatively dynamic coffee industries of south and west Ethiopia, Harrar has languished over the past two decades with little innovation or improvement in quality. Many Harrar coffee farmers now prefer to grow khat, a tree whose fresh leaves are chewed as a stimulant, and which offers them year-round income rather than seasonal income, as does coffee.

At this writing, one only occasionally sees Harrar coffees in the North American specialty market, although they may be a bit more common in northern Europe. Hopefully Harrar will find the leadership and partners it needs to bring it back into specialty coffee as the great and honored origin it was 40 years ago.

Ethiopia Growing Regions

The coffee-name geography of Ethiopia is changing. Overlaid on the traditional regional names— particularly Yirgacheffe and Sidama (or Sidamo), both celebrated names in recent coffee history — are more lately established names for regions, zones and districts aimed at reflecting and honoring various Ethiopian traditional or tribal identities. These newer names form the backbone in the complex ECX grading system. On bags and websites, you may find the old, generalized regional naming or the newer, more ethnically correct terminology, or both. Or the main descriptor simply may consist of the name of one of the many well-known cooperatives or wet mills.

Ethiopia Coffee Ratings and Reviews

The Ethiopia coffees reviewed below are listed in reverse chronological order by review date. Only reviews published in the past five years are displayed. Click here to view older reviews of coffees from Ethiopia. Older reviews may no longer accurately reflect current versions of the same coffee.


93

VERYTIME

Ethiopia Lucy Geisha

Review Date: Jul 2023
Price: NT $375/8 ounces

Richly sweet, gently tart. Wisteria, pomegranate, fresh-cut fir, brown sugar, grapefruit zest in aroma and cup. Brisk acidity; very full, satiny mouthfeel. The finish consolidates to notes of fir, brown sugar and grapefruit zest.

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94

Jaunt Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Kafa Natural

Review Date: Jul 2023
Price: $23.00/12 ounces

Deeply sweet, fruit-forward. Bing cherry, dark chocolate, marshmallow, cashew, lime zest in aroma and cup. Sweet structure with bright, juicy acidity; full, creamy-smooth mouthfeel. The cleanly fruit-toned finish shows undertones of cashew and dark chocolate.

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94

Ironclad Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Worka Sakaro Anaerobic Natural

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: $22.00/12 ounces

Complexly fruit-layered, floral. Star jasmine, wild raspberry, lychee, cocoa nib, sandalwood in aroma and cup. Juicy-bright acidity; plush, syrupy mouthfeel. The resonant finish centers around notes of cocoa-toned raspberry and sandalwood.

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94

JBC Coffee Roasters

Bale Mountain Natural Ethiopia

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: $23.00/12 ounces
JBC Coffee Roasters Logo

Fruit-driven, deeply sweet. Dried raspberry, dark chocolate, wisteria, wild honey, a hint of wine barrel in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart, high-toned acidity; full, syrupy mouthfeel. The finish centers around notes of raspberry and wisteria with a continuing hint of wine barrel.

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94

Lee Dong Coffee

Ethiopia Sidama Arbegona 74158 Washed

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: NT $240/227 grams

Delicately sweet, spice-toned. Bergamot, apple butter, pistachio, cocoa nib, lilac in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart with lively acidity; silky mouthfeel. The cocoa-toned finish is supported by notes of bergamot and lilac.

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93

Ingenuity Coffee Roastery

Ethiopia Sidama Arbegona Duwancho Cooperative G1

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: NT $280/200 grams

Sweetly savory, rich-toned. Pipe tobacco, golden raisin, lilac, almond, baking chocolate in aroma and cup. Crisply sweet structure with winy acidity; very full, creamy mouthfeel. The finish centers on notes of golden raisin and pipe tobacco.

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93

Jebena Coffees

Ethiopia Kayon Mountain

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: AED $99.75/250 grams

Crisp, richly sweet. Cocoa nib, dried nectarine, narcissus, hazelnut, brown sugar in aroma and cup. Brightly sweet structure with juicy acidity; crisp, satiny mouthfeel. The finish centers around notes of cocoa-toned nectarine.

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94

GK Coffee

Ethiopia Bench Maji Geisha Lucy Station Dark Roast

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: NT $600/200 grams
GK Coffee (Taiwan) - Logo

Roasty-sweet, floral-toned. Honeysuckle, date, scorched birch, dark chocolate, Meyer lemon zest in aroma and cup. Crisp, juicy acidity; satiny-smooth mouthfeel. Chocolaty finish with undertones of lemon and honeysuckle.

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93

Bassline Coffee

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Natural Dark

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: $21.00/12 ounces

Cocoa-centric, gently spice-toned. Baking chocolate, pink peppercorn, orange blossom, dried blueberry, oak in aroma and cup. Sweetly savory with gently tart acidity; silky-smooth mouthfeel. Crisply chocolaty finish with undertones of dried blueberry.

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93

Revel Coffee

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Yeast Process

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: $21.50/12 ounces

Bright, richly aromatic. Bergamot, apricot, lemon verbena, cocoa nib, honey in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart with sparkling acidity; crisp, satiny mouthfeel.The harmonious finish centers around notes of cocoa nib and bergamot.

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93

Buon Caffe

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Adame Washed Process

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: NT $300/8 ounces

Balanced, richly sweet. Apricot, baking chocolate, almond, Meyer lemon zest, cedar in aroma and cup. Sweet structure with bright, juicy acidity; crisp, satiny mouthfeel. The finish consolidates to notes of cocoa-toned almond and bittersweet lemon zest.

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93

Kakalove Café

Ethiopia Washed Yirgacheffe Gedeb Worka Chelchele

Review Date: Jun 2023
Price: NT $275/8 ounces
KakaLove Logo

High-toned, richly sweet-savory. Plum, tangerine, narcissus, cedar, maple syrup in aroma and cup. Vibrant structure with balanced, juicy acidity; crisp, satiny mouthfeel. The resonant finish consolidates to notes of plum and tangerine supported by maple syrup suggestions.

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93

Bargain Cafe

Ethiopia Bench-Maji Lucy Station Geisha

Review Date: May 2023
Price: NT $399/200 grams

Complex, deep-toned. Apricot, pink grapefruit zest, salted caramel, cedar, lemon thyme in aroma and cup. Crisp, sweetly tart structure with juicy acidity; satiny mouthfeel. Finish consolidates to notes of pink grapefruit, apricot and cedar.

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92

Ramshead Coffee Roasters

Ethiopia Washed Aricha Woreda Yirgacheffe

Review Date: May 2023
Price: $19.00/12 ounces

Aromatic, sweet-savory, big-bodied. Grapefruit, dark chocolate, cedar, sarsaparilla, ginger blossom in aroma and cup. Sweetly brisk with plush, viscous mouthfeel. Flavor consolidates in a simple, resonant finish around notes of grapefruit and cedar.

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93

Kafe Coffee Roastery

Ethiopia Bench-Maji Lucy Station Washed Geisha

Review Date: May 2023
Price: NT $380/227 grams

Multi-layered, sweetly tart. Freesia, pink grapefruit zest, nectarine, cedar, bay leaf in aroma and cup. Crisp, sweetly tart structure with bright acidity; delicate, silky mouthfeel. Pink grapefruit, nectarine and cedar notes carry the crisp finish.

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93

Regent Coffee

Ethiopia Sidamo Faysel Abdosh Anaerobic Natural

Review Date: May 2023
Price: $29.50/12 ounces

Sweetly fermenty, richly aromatic. Raspberry brandy, lilac, mint, cocoa nib, yogurt in aroma and cup. Tart-leaning structure with citrusy acidity; satiny-smooth mouthfeel. Rich-toned finish with notes of mint and raspberry brandy.

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94

GK Coffee

Ethiopia Bench Maji Geisha Lucy Station

Review Date: May 2023
Price: NT $600/200 grams
GK Coffee (Taiwan) - Logo

Floral-toned, sweetly citrusy. Magrut lime, star jasmine, salted almond, fresh-cut oak, honey in aroma and cup. Juicy-sweet structure with brightly tart acidity; very silky, viscous mouthfeel. Citrusy and floral-toned finish.

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94

HWC Coffee

Ethiopia Yirgacheffe Jade Lotus

Review Date: May 2023
Price: $20.00/8 ounces

Brightly sweet, high-toned. Pink grapefruit, cocoa nib, red plum, maple syrup, fresh-cut oak in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart structure with juicy acidity; very silky, vibrant mouthfeel. The finish centers around notes of cocoa nib and pink grapefruit.

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92

Libero Coffee

Ethiopia Gediyo Yirgacheffe Gedeb Banko Gotiti G1 Natural

Review Date: May 2023
Price: NT $440/8 ounces

Crisp, fruit-toned, delicately floral. Baking chocolate, lime zest, date, narcissus, fresh-cut fir in aroma and cup. Sweet-toned with brisk acidity; crisply satiny mouthfeel. Gently drying finish with aromatic wood notes supported by lime zest.

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95

JBC Coffee Roasters

Banko Gotiti Ethiopia

Review Date: May 2023
Price: $20.00/12 ounces
JBC Coffee Roasters Logo

Richly aromatic, deep-toned. Lemongrass, mandarin orange, maple syrup, almond butter, narcissus in aroma and cup. Sweetly tart with confidently bright acidity; crisp, lightly satiny mouthfeel. Harmonious, integrated, flavor-laden finish.

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