Sumatra Mandheling by Terroir Select Coffees Review |
  • Terroir Select Coffees

    Acton, Massachusetts
  • Sumatra Mandheling

Roast: Medium-Light Review Date: January 2005
Origin: Mandheling growing region, North Sumatra Province, Sumatra, Indonesia Price: $12.95/12oz

Blind Assessment: This unusually light roasted Sumatra is very sweet and richly high-toned, and exceptional in its lush but delicate expression of the natural character of coffee fruit and flower. The fruit suggests cherry leaning toward unsweetened chocolate, but those who have visited coffee farms will recognize it as the taste of the coffee fruit itself, with shimmers of jasmine-like coffee flower. The short finish is cherryish and rich, though the long leaves us with just the slightest hint of astringency.

Notes: Mandheling is the traditional market name for coffee grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. This coffee is, in fact, from Lintong, a smaller growing area within the Mandheling region. Terroir is a recently established microroaster selling only elite single-origin coffees, no blends. It specializes in medium roast styles designed to foreground the character of the green coffee. Terroir is the creation of George Howell, one of the world?s leading coffee visionaries. Visit or call 866-444-5282 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: An exceptional opportunity to taste the Sumatra and not the roast.


Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.