88	McClure Farms Captain Cook, Hawaii Kona Fancy Medium-Dark Roast: Medium Review Date: April 2004 Origin: Honaunau, South Kona, Hawaii Price: NA

Blind Assessment: Delicately rich, with a shimmer of flowers in the aroma, pear deepening toward cherry and chocolate in the cup. Sweet, softly complex finish. The sample I cupped probably was delivered slightly stale from the restaurant; a fresh sample of the same coffee might well merit a higher rating.

Notes: Served as Big Island Mill 100% Kona, Medium-Dark Roast, at Alan Wong's in Honolulu, Hawaii. Chef-owner Alan Wong's restaurant and regional Hawaiian cuisine has been consistently voted number one for food and most popular in Honolulu by Zagat Survey readers. According to my restaurant-trotting Coffee Review colleague Ron Walters, Alan Wong's is one of the few distinguished restaurants he has visited that approaches coffee with the same respect and seriousness as restaurants routinely lavish on wine. This Kona is grown by farmer Jon McClure near the town of Honaunau in South Kona. Visit www.eskimo.com/~mcclure or call 808-328-9290 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: A Kona to gratify Kona enthusiasts and persuade Kona scoffers.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.