78	Coffeemaria Hanover Park, Illinois Ethiopian Harrar Roast: Dark Review Date: May 2003 Origin: Harrar growing region, east-central Ethiopia Price: NA

Blind Assessment: A wildly flawed but perversely interesting coffee. Dramatically uneven from cup to cup, with some cups dominated by a heavy and rather oppressive Mediterranean spice character (thyme or rosemary) and others displaying less oppressive and more pleasant floral and bitter fruit tones - in the latter case, imagine bitter-chocolate-covered jasmine petals. All of this aromatic peculiarity probably derives from a combination of mildly fermented fruit with a musty overlay acquired while the still fruit-encased beans were drying.

Notes: Coffeemaria is a boutique micro-roaster that, via its website, sells coffee roasted to order and same-day shipped. Visit www.coffeemaria.com or call 630-289-4496 for more info.

Who Should Drink It: Only those fascinated by the stranger reaches of coffee character. Milk softens and sweetens some of this coffee's many rough edges.

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