Coffee Review - Sumatra Mandheling by Lexington Coffee
Roast: Medium-Light Review Date: April 2013
Origin: Lintong growing region, northern Sumatra, Indonesia. Price: $13.50/12 ounces

Blind Assessment: Sweet-toned with an exotic shifting complexity. Golden sugar, tart apple, sweet plum, lush flowers, mixed spices (turmeric, tamarind, cumin), brandy, roasted cacao nib in aroma and cup. Richly juicy acidity; silky mouthfeel. Quietly but profoundly flavor-saturated finish.

Notes: This is a dry-processed or "natural" coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit has been removed, as is the case with the “wet-hulled” coffees more typical of northern Sumatra. Wahana Estate is a relatively new coffee farm in the classic Lintong growing district near Lake Toba. Founded in 1990, Lexington Coffee is an award-winning artisan roasting company based in Virginia. Lexington’s focus on fresh, flavorful and sustainable coffee is reflected in its motto, “Fresh, Flavorful & Fair.” Visit or call 800-322-6505 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: An exceptional and unusual dried-in-the-fruit coffee, with the sweetness and aromatic complexity characteristic of the type expressed cleanly without the distraction of over-the-top fruit. Not your typical Sumatra, by the way; closer in character to certain of the finest dried-in-the-fruit Ethiopias.


Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.