84	Allegro Coffee Roasters Boulder, Colorado Organic Papua New Guinea Roast: Medium Review Date: November 1997 Origin: Papua New Guinea Price: NA

Blind Assessment: High, wild, winy notes rip through this coffee, first thrilling us, then turning uncomfortably lush in the finish, finally leveling out in a relatively clean aftertaste. American coffee culture hasn't made up its mind about this overripe, edge-of-compost taste. Is it a strange and wonderful gift of nature to be treasured, like the carefully cultivated mold in certain cheeses? Or do we dismiss it as a symptom of poorly-handled coffee?

Notes: High, wild, winy notes rip through this coffee, first thrilling, then turning uncomfortably lush in the finish, finally leveling out in a relatively clean aftertaste. Certified organically grown. Produced by small growers. Unlike estate New Guineas, which are wet-processed, this coffee has been dry-processed, which means the coffee was dried with the fruit clinging to the beans.

Who Should Drink It: People who love the wild, rich coffees of Yemen; coffee romantics. Anyone interested in coffee controversy. The line between striking tastes we treasure and those we condemn is a fine one, drawn by culture and tradition rather than anything inherent about our palates. Which way do you read this one? Buy a pound and send us an e-mail.

Coffee, more so than wine, is a continually changing product. Recent reviews, whether written by Coffee Review or readers, are most likely to reflect current versions of a given coffee.