Blind Assessment: Sweet yet dryly bright, lightly acidy with shimmers of wine and flowers. As the coffee cools the grace notes settle toward chocolate. Not much body, dimension or staying power, but a lively, balanced cup.

Notes: Sweet yet dryly bright, lightly acidy with shimmers of wine and flowers. As the coffee cools the grace notes settle toward chocolate. Handsome Juan Valdez and large quantities of good-to-decent coffee at reasonable prices have made Colombia the only single origin to stake out a significant presence on supermarket shelves. Sold pre-ground in a vacuum-sealed steel can. Price per ounce: $0

Who Should Drink It: If traditions can come in a can, canned Colombias like this one are an American tradition. My parents brewed canned Colombia in their Danish modern Chemex in 1960. Compared to the listless, plodding nonentities of canned blends it competes against, this coffee is a virtual thoroughbred.