Allegro Coffee Roasters
A cup displaying all of the idiosyncrasy and complexity that makes Yemen such a fascinating origin. The aroma is funky, rich, pungent, all haloed by sweetness. The body is rich and buttery. The controversial, slightly composty overtones to the fruit that turn some palates off to Yemen are gently dominated here by the pungent taste of the roast, turning the fruit into a sensation as much tactile as olfactory, a sort of smoky, dry-toned richness.
A cup displaying all of the idiosyncrasy and complexity that makes Yemen such a fascinating origin. The aroma is funky, rich, pungent, all haloed by sweetness. The body is rich and buttery. Yemen is the world's most traditional coffee, grown from ancient cultivars of Coffea arabica and still dried in the fruit on rooftops, husked by millstone, and cleaned by hand.
Who Should Drink It
Anyone who thinks all coffees taste the same. Coffee purists may be offended by the occasional lush twist in the Yemen aftertaste, but the public seems more than willing to overlook it given the depth, power, and dry fruit intrigue of the best Yemen. Recently I gave a coffee talk to the general public preceded by an informal tasting. The audience overwhelmingly preferred a Yemen to three other very distinguished origins.
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This review originally appeared in the May, 1999 tasting report: A Dozen Keepers