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87

Batdorf & Bronson

Yemen Mocha

Roaster Location: Olympia, Washington
Coffee Origin: Central north Yemen, probably near Sana'a.
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 47/54
Est. Price: NA
Review Date: November 2007
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 7
Aftertaste: 7

Blind Assessment

Ambiguous flavors associated with fruity mustiness run through the profile. Co-cupper Miguel Meza (87) describes them as: "Sweet-smoky and medicinal. A pungent and musty full-bodied coffee with exotic hints of eucalyptus, sassafras and bakers' yeast." Ken (86) is more conventional and more positive: "Rich, raisiny dark chocolate with a pungent cedar and herbal edge in aroma and rather syrupy cup."

Notes

A dry-processed or "natural" coffee, meaning the beans were dried inside the fruit rather than after the fruit has been removed, as is the case with wet-processed or "washed" coffees. Although Ethiopia is the botanical home of Coffea arabica, Yemen introduced the beverage to the rest of the world in the 16th and 17th centuries. Amazingly, little has changed in the Yemeni coffee industry since then; coffee is still grown from ancient cultivars, sun-dried on the roofs of stone houses and hulled by millstone. Mocha is the name first given to Yemen coffee by Europeans because it was shipped exclusively through the port of Al Makha or Mocha. Batdorf & Bronson is a leading wholesale quality-oriented specialty roaster with roasting locations in both Olympia, Washington and Atlanta, Georgia. Visit www.batdorfcoffee.com or call 800-955-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Those who prefer the interesting to the beautiful.

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This review originally appeared in the November, 2007 tasting report: Berries, Wine and Chocolate (Some of the Time): Dry-Processed Coffees of Ethiopia and Yemen

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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