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89

Dean & Deluca

Vintage Colombian

Roaster Location: New York, New York
Coffee Origin: Colombia
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 48/61
Review Date: June 2003
Aroma: 8
Acidity: 7
Body: 8
Flavor: 7

Blind Assessment

Aging apparently tamed the acidity and turned it low-key but vibrant. Rich, cherry and red-wine notes hint at chocolate with patient drinking. A shadow bitterness can be taken as either marring or balancing the opulence of the fruit.

Notes

Sold whole bean in bulk; $11.00 per pound. This coffee was held for eight years after harvest and before roasting. However, unlike "aged" Indonesian coffees, which are held for two years or so in hot, damp port conditions, this Colombia was held in relatively dry conditions at a high elevation, hence the apparently modest (and, it would seem, positive) change in flavor. Roasted by 1st Colony Coffee Roasters for Dean & Deluca, the celebrated chain of fine food stores. Visit www.dean-deluca.com or call 877-826-9246 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

Those curious about what eight years in a mountain warehouse will do to a fine, high-grown coffee. Coffee drinkers who take their classic breakfast cup with whitener or sugar may find the slight bitterness a virtue.

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This review originally appeared in the June, 2003 tasting report: Pursuing Quality at the Supermarket

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