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78

Heavenly Hawaiian Coffee

The Other Farm Estate Kona, Vienna Roast

Roaster Location: Holualoa, Hawaii
Roast Level: Medium-Dark
Agtron: 41/49
Review Date: February 2002
Aroma: 6
Acidity: 5
Body: 8
Flavor: 5

Blind Assessment

Sweet and full-bodied with a hint of fruit, but aggressively flat, shallow, and bitter-toned. The almost total lack of acidity leaves the cup listless and prey to a sort of negative nuance: a soapy bitterness.

Notes

Among Kona insiders, a controversial coffee. Grown from the traditional Kona typica variety of coffee tree grafted onto root stock of the sturdy but bland Liberica species, this innovative coffee was rejected for purchase by at least two Kona mill owners but subsequently won first place in the Gevalia 2000 Kona Cupping Competition. After picking this coffee out of over 20 Konas in a blind cupping as both spectacularly different and spectacularly bland, I definitely side with the nay-sayers. It would be an enormous blunder for Kona coffee growers to switch to this grafted variety despite its impressive agricultural advantages.Visit www.heavenlyhawaiian.com or call 1-808-322-7720 for more info.

Who Should Drink It

Those who are so phobic about brisk, bright coffees that they are willing to sacrifice flavor to flatness.

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This review originally appeared in the February, 2002 tasting report: Konas and Other Hawaiis

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