Blind Assessment: This ingratiating dark roast comes straight at us, forgoing drama and intrigue. Not much Sumatra-style resonance behind its first sweet-pungent impression, but balanced and pleasing.

Notes: An ingratiating dark roast which is smoothly pungent. Balanced and pleasing. This Sumatra is a Lintong, from a relatively small growing area within the larger designation of Mandheling.

Who Should Drink It: People who want to pretend they're sitting in the sun on a curb in North Berkeley outside the original Peet's store drinking unspeakably strong coffee while listening to people carry on about Nietzsche or how to cook goat cheese. Makes a first-rate West-Coast espresso: smoothly pungent.