|Mandheling growing region near Lake Toba, North Sumatra Province, Sumatra, Indonesia
Delicate but intense aroma: sandalwood, hints of cherryish fruit. In the cup lean in mouthfeel; the aromatic wood notes settle toward chocolate while the fruit displays a distinct and pleasant grapefruit twist. The chocolate and fruit persist only momentarily in the finish before they are lost in astringency. Reader Frank Baker nominated this coffee as "a quintessential Sumatra, absolutely the best I have ever tasted."
Mandheling is the traditional market name for an admired coffee type grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. These coffees are marked by low acidity and idiosyncratic flavor notes that appear to result from serendipitous taints - mild ferment and mildew - acquired during unconventional drying procedures. Cuvee Coffee is a small-batch, artisan wholesale roasting company located in southeastern Texas near Houston. Visit www.cuveecoffee.com or call 281-288-2780 for more information.
Who Should Drink It
Those who, like Frank, prefer their Sumatras lean-bodied and grapefruity rather than heavy and earthy.
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This review originally appeared in the January, 2006 tasting report: Romance and Perfection: 2006 Readers' Choices