Terroir Select Coffees
|Mandheling growing region, North Sumatra Province, Sumatra, Indonesia
This unusually light roasted Sumatra is very sweet and richly high-toned, and exceptional in its lush but delicate expression of the natural character of coffee fruit and flower. The fruit suggests cherry leaning toward unsweetened chocolate, but those who have visited coffee farms will recognize it as the taste of the coffee fruit itself, with shimmers of jasmine-like coffee flower. The short finish is cherryish and rich, though the long leaves us with just the slightest hint of astringency.
Mandheling is the traditional market name for coffee grown in the region around Lake Toba in north-central Sumatra. This coffee is, in fact, from Lintong, a smaller growing area within the Mandheling region. Terroir is a recently established micro-roaster selling only elite single-origin coffees, no blends. It specializes in medium roast styles designed to foreground the character of the green coffee. Terroir is the creation of George Howell, one of the world's leading coffee visionaries. Visit www.terroircoffee.com or call 866-444-5282 for more info.
Who Should Drink It
An exceptional opportunity to taste the Sumatra and not the roast.
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This review originally appeared in the January, 2005 tasting report: Now More Than Ever: Traditional Coffees of Sumatra and Sulawesi