Blind Assessment: A big, enveloping aroma introduces crisp, pungent aromatics. Black currant, moist freshly fallen leaves, dark chocolate, blood orange, sandalwood in aroma and cup. Buoyantly juicy acidity; plush mouthfeel. Sweet, quietly flavor-saturated finish.

Notes: Ulos Batak is the name applied by the cooperative exporter Klasik Beans to a premium grade of its small-producer wet-hulled coffee from the Lintong region south of Lake Toba. Lintong is one of the longest-established growing regions in Sumatra and arguably the most admired. Coffees from the northern part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra are valued for their complex earth and fruit notes that appear to result largely from unorthodox fruit removal and drying practices called “wet hulling.” This is a particularly refined example of the type. Seattle Coffee Works is a small-batch retail and wholesale roasting company focused on quality and green coffee sourcing without compromise. Visit www.seattlecoffeeworks.com or call 206-340-8867 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: This fine, classic wet-hulled Sumatra almost suggests Kenya with its crisp, sweetly tart, berryish richness.