Blind Assessment: Sweetly and richly earth-toned. Black currant, cocoa powder, fresh humus, malt, magnolia in aroma and cup. Sweet-savory structure with gentle, round acidity; very smooth, satiny mouthfeel. The resonant finish centers on cocoa and sweet earth notes.

Notes: This coffee tied for the fourth-highest rating in a cupping of “desert-island coffees” submitted by roasters for Coffee Review’s May 2020 tasting report. Coffees from the northern part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra are valued for their complex earth and fruit notes that appear to result largely from unorthodox fruit removal and drying practices called “wet-hulling.” This is a particularly refined example of the type. Cloud City Coffee is a specialty roaster and coffee shop founded in 2002 by roaster Jill Killen. Visit www.cloudcitycoffeeroasting.com.

The Bottom Line: A classic Sumatra: sweetly pungent fruit, fresh earth and dry, chocolaty grace notes.