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93

Kean Coffee

Sumatra Lake Tawar

Roaster Location: Newport Beach, California
Coffee Origin: Lake Tawar basin, Aceh Province, northern Sumatra, Indonesia
Roast Level: Medium
Agtron: 47/62
Est. Price: $14.50/12 ounces
Review Date: August 2012
Aroma: 9
Acidity: 8
Body: 8
Flavor: 9
Aftertaste: 9

Blind Assessment

Pungent sweetness and a shifting, active complexity. Butterscotch, papaya, fresh-cut fir, moist earth in aroma and cup. Crisp acidity; delicate, silky mouthfeel. Deep, flavor-saturated finish.

Notes

Coffees from the northern part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra are admired for their complex earth, fruit, and aromatic wood notes that result largely from unorthodox fruit removal and drying practices called “wet hulling.” This coffee is a particularly refined example of the type. With two locations in Southern California's Orange County, Kéan Coffee is an in-house coffee roaster and retailer established by Martin Diedrich of the distinguished Diedrich coffee family. The Kéan slogan, "Martin knows his beans" should be true, considering Martin grew up in Guatemala where his family owned a coffee farm.Visit www.keancoffee.com or call 949-933-9164 for more information.

Who Should Drink It

Lovers both of the old, funky Sumatras as well as the new, more refined (yet still intense) versions like this one.

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About the Author: Kenneth Davids

Kenneth Davids is editor, chief writer and co-founder of Coffee Review. His latest book, 21st Century Coffee: A Guide is an unprecedentedly thorough survey of specialty coffee in all of its aspects, authoritative yet engaging. He has been involved with coffee since the early 1970s and has published three earlier books on coffee, including the influential Home Roasting: Romance and Revival, now in its second edition, and Coffee: A Guide to Buying, Brewing and Enjoying, which has sold nearly 250,000 copies in five editions..

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