Blind Assessment: Slight hints of earth and moist fallen leaves enrich and complicate chocolate, apricot and raisin suggestions; the fusion perhaps suggests the sweet, fruity, barrel-fermented tobacco called perique. Despite its unorthodox aromatics, a finely structured cup: gentle, lightly crisp acidity; plush, buoyant mouthfeel; with a sound balance of basic tastes and cleanly sweet, resonant finish.

Notes: This coffee is produced by the small community of Silimakuta north of Lake Toba, one of four micro-regions that comprise the KUD Cooperative. Coffees from the northern part of the Indonesian island of Sumatra are valued for their complex earth and fruit notes that appear to result largely from unorthodox fruit removal and drying practices called “wet hulling.” This is a particularly refined example of the type. Roasted at PT’s Coffee, where the motto is “without the love, it’s just coffee.” Visit www.ptscoffee.com or call 888-678-5282 for more information.

Who Should Drink It: Those coffee drinkers nostalgic for a hint of the old-fashioned earthy, full-bodied Sumatra cup updated in a thoroughly refined rendition: a touch earthy and fruity but sweet-toned, subtle, nuanced.